Cheryl Shops

Where & When: Thursday, February 10 at 2 p.m., the Altman Building
Runway Recap: When I write about awards-show fashion, my one recurring lament is that no one takes risks on the red carpet. Of course, no one likes a tongue-lashing from Joan Rivers, but if a starlet were to venture out with the artistry of Toni Maticevski's designs, I think even the mean-girl bloggers would have to bite their tongues. Today's eveningwear-heavy collection featured gorgeous dresses in varying states of deshabillé, from shredded chiffon gowns that appeared to disintegrate outward from the body, to closer-fitting sequined bras and Spanx-like skirts adorned with half peplums and draped swaths of satin. They're not the most practical looks, but that's beside the point. Their inherent drama would be most at home on a red carpet, although with so much sheerness and exposure, Maticevski's designs might be best suited for a more intimate environment.
Standout Look: Constructed and deconstructed at the same time, this sequined top and layered chiffon skirt were among the more conventionally wearable--yet still provocative--looks Maticevski presented.
Bonus Points: I always love seeing shows at the Altman Building--the atmosphere is much more serene, and they always have free Page Six Magazines and Fiji Water.
Where to Buy: Email info@tonimaticevski.com for information.

Of the 35 shows I saw, here are my personal favorite ten, in no particular order.

Vena Cava
Airy chiffon dresses and quirky prints meet leather pants and punky details to create a downtown girl's ultimate wardrobe.


Rad Hourani
Without regard to season or trend, Rad further refines his signature look of boxy biker jackets and skinny pants.


Tibi
With bright colors, pretty prints, and a Guns N Roses soundtrack, Tibi delivered a breath of fresh spring air.



Yigal Azrouel
The draped jersey dresses, pegged trousers, and washed leather jackets of my dreams.


Toni Maticevski
With artfully shredded tulle and sooty colors, decaying glamour has never looked more beautiful.


Max Azria
It looks like Max Azria has found a strong voice for his signature line: an edgy minimalist sophisticate.


Rebecca Minkoff
Totally on-trend, wearable looks that gave a nod to early-'90s Versace and the Supermodels.


Chado Ralph Rucci
Impeccable from start to finish, with an incredible regard for a woman's body, a gorgeous collection that twisted and turned around the spine.


Nicole Miller
The perfect juxtaposition between techno-sleek structure versus soft fluidity.


Ports 1961
A lovely voyage to Japan, rendered in gorgeous fabrics and shapes that effortlessly floated away from the body.

Where & When: Sunday, September 13th at noon, the Altman Building
Runway Recap: Perhaps because he's based in Australia and doesn't have a strong retail presence here, Toni Maticevski tends to fly under the radar in the U.S. But considering how breathtakingly beautiful his runway looks are, I'm honestly surprised that more fashion-forward celebs don't choose his designs for the red carpet. His latest collection was a meditation on death and decay, but also of the life that springs forth from it. Asymmetrical ruffles extended like vines from tailored suits; puffs of tulle sprouted from the shoulders of frothy silk gowns. The textures were sometimes dark and sooty, but Maticevski cuts his gowns with such an exquisite regard for the female body, that beauty could always be found within. Certain details, like exaggerated half peplums and crinkled black dresses evocative of garbage bags, will not be for everyone. But anyone who can see the lightness in darkness is sure to be enchanted by Maticevski's ethereal designs.
Standout Look: Like a tutu that's been rolled around in the dirt, this layered tulle gown reminded me of the decaying beauty of Swan Lake, one of my favorite ballets.
Bonus Points: After dealing with the total chaos of the Bryant Park tents on Saturday, the Altman Building was positively mellow in comparison. And I am not one to argue with free Fiji Water.
Where to Buy: Click here for stockists.

Toni Maticevski Fall 2009
Where & When: Monday, February 16th at 5 p.m., the Altman Building
Runway Recap: While waiting for Australia-based Maticevski's show to start, I read his program notes, which said, basically, that he can't pinpoint the collection's inspiration; he creates with the intent to stir emotion. Not only is that a refreshingly frank notion, but it reflects the purity with which he designs--Maticevski is a couture designer, and while, yes, he still has a business to run, he must truly inspire his clients to buy his designs. And after seeing his show today, I can't imagine how you could not be inspired. At times ladylike, at times tarty, Maticevski played with sequined lace, silk fringe, hand-painted silk organza, and some of the most gorgeous beading I've ever seen. It wasn't about silhouette or color or what will sell; it was a fashion fantasy of epic proportions.
Standout Look: The ethereal silk organza dresses at the beginning of the show were like a dream and the sequined, beaded dresses were truly attention-getting, but my true favorite was this dress, which came as part of the tribal portion toward the end. The fluttery bodice was silk lace with sequins and beading, and the skirt was feathers, and it was truly, truly stunning.
Bonus Points: Patricia Field and Carson Kressley were in the audience, as was Solange Knowles and It Girl Poppy Delvigne.
Where to Buy: Vivienn.com, or email info@tonimaticevski.com for special orders.