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Fall 2008 Fashion Week in Review
Number of shows I attended: 29
Number of shows I was invited to but missed: 4 (two due to double-booking, two due to laziness)
Number of hours I managed to work at my daytime job: 37-1/2
Number of shows I tried to unsuccessfully talk my way into: 1 (Max Azria has prison-guard-like publicists)
Number of pounds I lost: 3
Number of ailments I now have: 1 (the flu)

Favorite shows I attended (in no particular order)
TIBI
Ruffian
Mara Hoffman
Chris Han
Temperley London

Five trends for fall
The return of the waist
Over-the-knee (boots and socks)
Ruffles
Mad Men (bright colors, full skirts)
Layering

Best swag
In the Iodice gift bag, what at first looked like a random airplane toy turned out to be an incredibly useful 1GB external hard drive, courtesy of TAM airlines.

Tents vs. off-site venues
There's much debate on this topic. The tents are far more convenient--everything's all in one place, Bryant Park is centrally located, there are restrooms--but the corporate sponsors sometimes create a trade-show-like atmosphere, and then there are the crashers, fashion students, and random friends ("OMG! OMG! We're at Fashion Week! This is soooo exciting"), not to mention the Pushy McShoversons, all of whom make the tents a totally annoying experience (I think Cintra Wilson captured the experience the best in this article for Salon). As for off-site venues, they are often more serene, more civilized, and have better swag (hello, Bumble + Bumble!), but they require schlepping all over the place, which, if you don't have a car and driver (which I don't), can be a nerve-wracking experience. Also, at three of the four off-site shows I went to this season, I had guest-list issues (but more on those later).

On swag
Fashion Week gives most people a serious case of The Gimmies, and I will admit I'm not immune to it. When I enter a show and see there are no gift bags, I actually breathe a sigh of relief. When I see that only the first or first two rows have them, I get irritated (what, only the "important" guests deserve swag?). When all of the seats have gift bags, I stash mine in my purse, lest someone try to steal it (that does happen to me, at least once a season), or, if I have a standing ticket, I try to figure out how to get one. I have no idea why gift bags produce so much anxiety--they don't necessarily contain the most useful items--but, hey, as The Shophound noted, free stuff is good stuff.

How to dress for Fashion Week
There are two types of people at Fashion Week: those who have seats, and those who do not. Most of the time, I fall into the latter category (which is fine--I am happy just to get invited), which involves a lot of standing around, waiting to be let in. Editors, buyers, and other VIPs, on the other hand, stroll in wearing sky-high platforms; since they basically go between their chauffeur-driven cars and their front-row seats, practical footwear is not necessary. As for me, I wore flats (or very low heels) every day and still managed to get photographed by several Japanese street-wear magazines. Still, Fashion Week is a bit of a fashion show off the runway as well, and I think everyone gets a little anxious about their outfits.

Parties and photographs
I could care less about getting my picture taken and/or going to parties, but for many people, these aspects of Fashion Week are more important than, say, the clothes going down the runways. To me, these are just more causes for anxiety; read this post, written by Slut Machine at Jezebel, for an honest take on how Fashion Week can make you feel awful about yourself.

On publicists
At Fashion Week, publicists have an extremely challenging job. No, I'm not being facetious--they have to deal with major fashion-industry egos whilst creating a seating plan, and then when check-in time comes, they have everyone rushing at them, from people pissed off at their seating assignment (or lack thereof) to show-crashers. And, of course, things always go wrong--you're not on the list, you have a standing ticket and don't get in, etc. But it is at this point where a fashion publicist's true colors show. I think that, like in the real world, about 75% of them are genuinely nice people and about 25% are assholes. The people at MAO PR, for example, are always lovely. But you don't want to hear about them, do you? I had two publicists send me invites to shows, to which I RSVP'd, but then when I wasn't on the list, they said it was because I didn't receive a "final confirmation." Um, wouldn't my invitation be my final confirmation? When I politely pointed out the lack of business etiquette present, both situations were quickly resolved. Also, I had another publicist, who was incredulous at my lack of business cards, tell me, "Honey, bring your business cards when you come to Fashion Week." Noted.

How to dress like a fashion editor in six easy steps
1. Opaque black tights
2. Platform shoes (preferably Christian Louboutin, Balenciaga, or Prada)
3. Fur coat
4. Expensive but not-too-flashy handbag with gold hardware
5. Smock dress or bubble or tulip skirt
6. Huge ring

Zang Toi Fall 2008
Where & When: Friday, February 8th at 5 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: The last show of Fashion Week is always a bit kooky, and that was certainly the case for Zang Toi. As songs like "American Girl" gave way to early Bjork tunes, the models walked at a glacially slow pace, perhaps a fitting way to show off the Mongolian-lamb-trimmed ski parkas and sable coats; toward the end, the models actually did the cheesey "aswirl" twirl at the beginning of the runway to display the admittedly gorgeous cowl backs of the evening gowns. The collection was inspired by a trip to the Adirondacks, and while the parkas and grunge-lite separates were fitting, I don't know where one would wear the multitude of red, white, and black gowns with Native American (or, as Toi called them, "American Indian"--so much for political correctness) motifs. Needless to say, the audience, which was clearly filled with loyal clients, loved it--the woman sitting in front of me dramatically raised her hands above her head to applaud the looks she liked.
Standout Look: The super-glam beaded cowl-back velvet gowns at the end were absolutely beautiful and sure to please Toi's uptown clientele.
Bonus Points: I knew I'd had enough of Fashion Week when I spotted a comely fellow in the front row and thought, "Who is that sexy, sexy guy?" Um, it was Constantine Maroulis from American Idol. Yes, I was that tired.
Where to Buy: Nordstrom

Willow Fall 2008
Where & When: Friday, February 8th at 2 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Australian designer Kit Willow always ends up on those "up-and-coming designer" lists but then for some reason never quite hits it big. Which is too bad, because her collection was filled with great dresses and separates, and even a superbly tailored three-piece suit. Willow embellished most pieces with exposed zippers, grommets, or lacing, which made them stand out from the asymmetrical draped satin pieces we've seen on other runways.
Standout Look: Here are five fall trends, all in one place: the long vest, the drapey charmeuse blouse, the defined waist, the bubble skirt, and over-the-knee boots. Thankfully, all of these pieces are understated and chic, which prevents the look from fashion victimization.
Bonus Points: The lighter colors and airy fabrics looked refreshing (and almost spring-like) in comparison to the heavy tweeds and plaids at many other shows.
Where to Buy: Email sales@willowltd.com for stores

Rad Hourani Fall 2008
Where & When: Friday, February 8th at noon, Bumble + Bumble
Runway Recap: I'd had my fill of evening gowns, so I skipped the Tadashi show in favor of Rad Hourani, a Canadian stylist-turned-designer with no formal training. His look is definitely on the avant-garde side; he favors a boxy, rectangular silhouette, often with fringey, strappy things hanging down. Most of the looks were layered, with dresses, jackets, and vests over super-skinny pants. All of this creates an androgynous effect, so it makes sense that he's already earning comparisons to Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester. And with all of the fussy full skirts and ruffles that have been so popular this season, Hourani's focused, streamlined collection was an exciting and welcome change.
Standout Look: The show's color palette was mostly black and red, but for me, the subtly sparkly jackets at the end really stood out. This look is successful too, because it manages to conceal the body with the boxy jacket while revealing the legs with the satiny skinny pants.
Bonus Points: I always love shows at Bumble + Bumble; not only are they totally serene (when compared to the insanity of the tents), but you get to eat fantastic chocolate-dipped macaroons while you wait, and the gift bag is always filled with B+B products (in this case, hairspray).
Where to Buy: Holt Renfrew stores in Canada

Jayson Brunsdon Fall 2008
Where & When: Thursday, February 7th at 9 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Life was definitely a cabaret at Australian designer Jayson Brunsdon's show; in case you couldn't hear the showtunes, everything was styled with jazz shoes, tights, leotards, and/or bowler hats to drive the point home. Brunsdon makes chic dresses, but many of them were unnecessarily sullied by excessive ruffles, bustles, or Playboy-bunny-lke pompoms. The audience was enthusiastic, but, like in an actual cabaret, I suspect they were throwing back a few drinks beforehand.
Standout Look: Brunsdon sent some great prints down the runway, my favorite of which was this one, featuring a showgirl motif reminiscent of Toulouse-Lautrec paintings.
Bonus Points: This designer should receive applause for his diverse model lineup, which featured several black and Asian models.
Where to Buy: Elizabeth Charles at 639 Hudson Street; Saks

Chris Han Fall 2008
Where & When: Thursday, February 7th at 6 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Draped jersey and pleated satin pieces met tailored pencil skirts and perfectly slouchy trousers, all in dusty, muted colors at Chris Han's packed show. There were great layered and work-friendly looks, and with the exception of a few designs that suffered from too-much-fabric syndrome, it was all very wearable. In fact, I had more stars next to this collection's looks than any other show I saw during Fashion Week.
Standout Look: The tweed coat features ribbed knit sleeves for a faux-short-sleeved effect; the satin blouse has an interesting, flattering asymmetrical neckline; and the low-slung trouser is neither too skinny nor too wide--in other words, this layered look is just perfect.
Bonus Points: It was an America's Next Top Model reunion in the front row as Noted Fashion Photographer Nigel Barker and former judge Nolé Marin caught up and reminisced about the good ol' times.
Where to Buy: A good question...to which I will work on finding the answer!

Famous people exiting and/or entering the Zac Posen show tonight within four feet of me
Anna Wintour (note: she enters the front of the tents but leaves by the side doors, by the bathrooms)
Carine and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld
Andre Leon Talley
Joy Bryant
Olivia Palermo
Rachel Zoe (who is looking very youthful all of a sudden)
Glenda Bailey
Kelly Bensimon
Tyson Beckford (whom, I think, didn't actually go into the show, but graciously posed for picture after picture with fans)
Patti Lupone (yes, that Patti Lupone--my inner gay man couldn't believe my eyes)

I ended up watching the show on the monitors, but apparently Ms. Jack White (a.k.a. Karen Elson) took quite a spill at the end.

Reem Acra Fall 2008
Where & When: Thursday, February 7th at 3 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Red-carpet regular Reem Acra could do the Grecian-goddess look in her sleep, so I found the draped charmeuse dresses in the middle of the show a bit old-hat. Thankfully, she started out with some Mad Men-inspired sweater-and-skirt separates and finished with breathtakingly glamorous, exquisitely detailed evening gowns. If the Oscars actually happen this year, look for her designs on the red carpet; if not, our loss.
Standout Look: This nude dress had a sequined black overlay that, as the model (the gorgeous Bruna Tenorio) walked down the runway, exploded like the flashbulbs of so many cameras. To. Die. For.
Bonus Points: Not only did model Chanel Iman subtly smirk whenever she walked past front-row fixture Tyson Beckford (who was plying her with "You go, girl!" cheers), but closer Jessica Stam broke out in a full grin when the audience applauded her as the music ran out and she was still only halfway down the runway. Models: They're just like us! (Well, not really...)
Where to Buy: The Reem Acra boutique at 14 E. 60th St.

Tony Cohen Fall 2008
Where & When: Thursday, February 7th at 9 a.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: The Dutch designer made his New York debut, but in spite of a big story in The Daily, his show was sparsely attended (it's rough going on the morning following the party of the season, in this case, the UN Gucci party on Wednesday night). Which is too bad, considering Cohen's airy silk dresses and chic cropped leather and shearling jackets. A master of drapery, Cohen showed some great working-girl-friendly cowl necklines and statement-making coats, although the beaded, feathered evening looks toward the end were a bit fussy.
Standout Look: I love a draped silky dress paired with a biker jacket, and this look got the balance right, perfect for the downtown girl I'm assuming Cohen is targeting.
Bonus Points: The gift bag contained an airy woven scarf, goodies from Aveeno, and a sugary-sweet Fizze drink.
Where to Buy: The Tony Cohen store in Amsterdam

Temperley London Fall 2008
Where & When: Wednesday, February 6th at 7 p.m. in the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Alice Temperley is known for her girly, party-friendly frocks, and for fall, she took her collection a step further. Inspired by Mata Hari, the famous 20th century spy, Temperley balanced feminine tiered-ruffle skirts with very masculine military-inspired jackets, topped off with admiral caps and glittery thigh-high boots. The resulting looks were a bit vampy, but intriguing. The palette was mostly black and white, with hints of red and lime green. With all the talk of waist-definition, I admire Temperley for sticking to her guns and sending out several empire-waist silhouettes.
Standout Look: Lime green is not an easy color to wear, but the sequined lace trim and ruffles make this dress (on Lily Donaldson) an adventurous look worthy of a rendez-vous with a double agent.
Bonus Points: The Temperley show started super-late, but the heckling photographers made the wait an amusing one.
Where to Buy: net-a-porter.com, the Temperley boutique at 453 Broome Street in Soho

Carlos Miele Fall 2008
Where & When: Wednesday, February 6th at 1 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Designers often cite architecture as their inspiration in certain collections, to varying degrees of success. But in Carlos Miele's case, I could definitely see the swirling forms of Frank Gehry in the beautifully constructed asymmetrical dresses and industrial-but-organic prints that he sent down the runway. Miele, a Brazilian, is clearly a designer who loves the female form, and with the exception of the too-chunky sweaters, his designs showcase one's curves in a lovely, flattering manner.
Standout Look: Miele always has great chiffon dresses, and the asymmetrical construction of this one made for a stunning silhouette.
Bonus Points: After hearing about model Karlie Kloss' robot-death-stare runway walk all week, I finally got to witness it firsthand, and I can report that it's awesome--I haven't seen a strut that unique since Iekeliene Stange's sway-backed clomping (which I also love).
Where to Buy: the Carlos Miele boutique on 14th Street

Malan Breton Fall 2008
Where & When: Wednesday, February 6th at 9 a.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: A Malan Breton show is usually an exercise in ruffles, feathers, fur, velvet, and beading, so the streamlined, simple look of his fall collection looked almost minimalist in comparison. Breton was inspired by Catherine Deneuve in her early career (think Belle du Jour and The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, which happens to be one of my favorite movies), and considering Deneuve is a fashion icon, this was no easy feat. There were some sharply tailored jackets and coats, and while his sheath dresses were chic and well-made, there were far too many of them.
Standout Look: The groovy cropped patent leather jacket captured the mod '60s inspiration perfectly, while this wide-leg trouser had an innovative design with side panels that tied across the back for a languid, lean look.
Bonus Points: It was a Project Runway reunion in the front row, with Angela Keslar, Diana Eng, Katherine Gerdes, and Emmett McCarthy all representing.
Where to Buy: The Malan Breton website

Joanna Mastroianni Fall 2008
Where & When: Tuesday, February 5th at 6 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Pretty much every designer showing in New York dabbles in eveningwear to some extent. For dramatic effect, these looks often come at the end of a runway show, often to much oohing and aahing from the audience. However, there's a difference between the typical bias-cut charmeuse gown and the pure artistry of a true eveningwear designer. Joanna Mastroianni falls into this latter category. Her shows do feature daytime looks, but her gowns are exquisitely detailed and carry a true sophistication that, well, all the designers showing trendy hip-slung trousers and vests can only hope to achieve someday. Her fall collection was inspired by Morocco, which translated into everything from ornate beading that evoked mosaic tiles to more sleek looks with geometric cutouts, with a healthy dose of spicy colors sprinkled throughout. Instead of veering into costumey territory, Mastroianni kept the theme on this side of tasteful.
Standout Look: This silk evening gown had so much going on, I didn't know where to look--a plunging neckline, a lapis-blue lining, and an ornately embroidered back panel.
Bonus Points: The designer's pomeranian took a turn down the runway, carried in the arms of a model during the final runway walk. After days of looking at strikingly beautiful women, it was nice to have a bit of cuteness.
Where to Buy: Kleinfeld, Neiman Marcus, Saks

Badgley Mischka Fall 2008
Where & When: Tuesday, February 5th at 10 a.m. in the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Badgley Mischka took their Uptown Girl out for a night on the town at Studio 54--tastefully so, of course. Tiny bits of leopard print, subtle metallics, and luxe fur vests upped the glam factor while airy chiffon blouses and amazingly well-cut wide-leg trousers kept everything grounded in luxury. For day, there were pencil-skirted suits for day, rich brocades in autumnal tones, and some great bishop-sleeve dresses in retro prints. For evening, lightly sequined jewel-toned charmeuse and hand-painted chiffon gowns flowed into the duo's signature ornately beaded gowns in shades of silver and gold, all surely to appear soon on the red carpet, because, as everyone knows, Badgley Mischka makes glamour look effortless.
Standout Look: The sequined bodice and subtly variegated skirt of this gown look chic and fresh, not fussy, and I bet it all reads great on camera. Are you listening, Oscar nominees?
Bonus Points: A rare Anna Wintour spotting!
Where to Buy: Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks

TIBI Fall 2008
Where & When: Tuesday, February 5th at 9 a.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Few things get me out of bed so early in the morning, but I'll gladly wake up for a TIBI show. For fall, designer Amy Smilovic took a trip back to the '70s, with low-key glam Ice Storm hostess gowns, Annie Hall tailored three-piece suits, and groovy dresses in varying lengths. As always, TIBI had a smattering of great prints, from a hippie-chic Southwestern motif to a stylized tree pattern. But the great joy in seeing a TIBI show is knowing that not only are the clothes wearable, they're also attainable--thankfully, no $5,000 dresses here.
Standout Look: While I loved the printed dresses, this was my favorite look, if only because it looks exactly like something I'd wear. Also note the knee-highs (these are part of the upcoming TIBI for Hue capsule collection), which have been popping up on a lot of runways.
Bonus Points: Not only were the gorgeous Caroline Trentini and my current fave Coco Rocha on the runway, Saleisha from America's Next Top Model also took a turn, and I begrudgingly admit she did a good job.
Where to Buy: shopbop.com, Saks, Bloomingdale's, and the TIBI store on Wooster

Iodice Fall 2008
Where & When: Monday, February 4th at 9 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Iodice is a huge fashion force in its native Brazil, and while the lower-priced jersey-based collection has been available in the U.S. for awhile now, this show marked the first presentation of the higher-end designer line on our shores. Inspired by graffiti--thankfully in a more abstract sense--Iodice sent one flirty, fluid minidress after another down the runway. Arty prints and colorblocking met exposed zippers, interesting pleats, and transparency to create party-girl frocks so awesome, you might want to rework your social schedule to accommodate all of them.
Standout Look: This burnout-silk dress was styled just how a pretty young thing would wear it: with a cropped leather jacket, opaque tights, and sky-high platforms.
Bonus Points: The designer, Valdemar Iodice, took a full lap on the runway to enthusiastic applause from the audience.
Where to Buy: CoutureCandy, LabelSpree, Revolve Clothing

Ports 1961 Fall 2008
Where & When: Monday, February 4th at 7 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: The Ports 1961 show is usually a more quiet affair, but last night's show was packed to the rafters with magazine editors, starlets, and department-store buyers; I guess word finally got out that the line is one to watch. Or, more likely, that designer Tia Cibani's travel-inspired collection--this time, the destination was the Scottish Highlands--is filled with work-friendly, wearable, but still thoughtful pieces, a wise investment in these uncertain times. As one would expect, there was a healthy dose of plaid (a big trend for fall), as well as some smart tweed suits, but to me, the best pieces were the slim but elegantly draped dresses, which I suspect will still be popular come fall.
Standout Look: I always love a little velvet for fall, but while the fabric has the tendency to look stiff, Cibani's velvet dresses were fluid and draped for a soft, flattering silhouette.
Bonus Points: The Ports 1961 gift is always a bit on the wack-a-doo side and this time was no exception. The Fug Girls put it best: "knitted horns on necklaces, punctuated with buttons? We don't know how else to explain them."
Where to Buy: Saks Fifth Avenue, Ports1961.com

Terexov Fall 2008
Where & When: Sunday, February 3rd at 9 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: When I think "Russian fashion," I think blonde, cleavage, huge designer logos, animal prints, furs, and so on. Fortunately, Russian designer Alexandr Terekhov has a far more sophisticated, refined style, especially considering the fact that he's a mere 29 years old. Simple but luxe belted jersey dresses, puffy parkas, and chic suits appeal to the working woman, whether in Moscow or, say, another cold and dreary city like Chicago. After so many sheer blouses and microminis on other runways, it was a delight to see so many wearable clothes.
Standout Look: Terekhov is Russian after all, so there was quite a bit of leather on the runway, my favorite of which was this quilted gray miniskirt, paired with a wintry white cashmere sweater.
Bonus Points: Nigel Barker was in the front row, but he couldn't hold a candle to the designer himself, who, should his design career falter, could take to the runway as a male model. See? He's a cutie!
Where to Buy: His website is in Russian, so your guess is as good as mine.

Tuleh Fall 2008
Where & When: Sunday, February 3rd at 7 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Rundown: I skipped the Sunday-morning and -afternoon shows to catch up on my sleep and post some reviews, and by the time I made it back to Bryant Park on Sunday evening, the atmosphere was almost serene. Of course, that was probably due to the fact that the Super Bowl was being played at the same time; I got seats at both shows, though, so I'm not complaining! Anyway, designer Bryan Bradley, who's now working on helping Lord & Taylor modernize its image, presented a colorful collection that celebrated, in the days leading up to Super Tuesday, our great country. Full, tea-length 1950s skirts mixed with classic cable-knit sweaters and prim belted suit jackets, and the '70s came into play with fabulous fur-trimmed dressing gowns and, for lack of a better word, pimp hats. It was all very happy and hopeful, which, in these uncertain times, is a welcome sentiment.
Standout Look: While there were some fabulously luxe long cardigans, I liked this vivid metallic-stripe sweater and full skirt ensemble. After so many minis and bubble hems, the dirndl skirt looked incredibly fresh to me.
Bonus Points: From Madonna's "American Life" to Nirvana's "Come as You Are" and Timbaland's "The Way I Are," the music was refreshingly all over the place.
Where to Buy: Bergdorf Goodman

Akiko Ogawa Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 9 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: If I were to summarize this show with one phrase, it would be "business in the front, party in the back." No, there were no mullets to be seen, but Ogawa's sharply tailored jackets and voluminous gowns often erupted in exaggerated peplums, bustles, ruffles, and general clumps of fabric as the models turned back down the runways. There were also several pieces with hologram fringe, which added to the madcap feel of the collection. All a bit odd, yes, but the designer is Japanese; picture these looks on the streets of Harajuku and it all begins to make sense.
Standout Look: For those of us who don't rock the Japanese-street-fashion look, the layered chiffon cocktail dresses with Swarovski crystals make for fun party frocks.
Bonus Points: The shoes in this collection were stellar, especially the chunky platform motorcycle boots. Want. Them. Bad.
Where to Buy: Somewhere in Japan, perhaps?