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Toni Francesc
I was a bit harsh on Toni Francesc last season, so I was surprised to be invited back this year. I am happy to report that this outing was a marked improvement--the garments fit the models, and I could actually see them this time, thanks to a better lighting design. The presentation overall was still a bit odd: The robot-like models, all decked out in wigs that made their heads look like those of aliens, stomped to an industrial track that sounded like digital heartbeats (the collection, after all, was titled "Artificial Life"). As for the clothes, there were some nice peak-shoulder jackets and fitted dresses; however, many of the looks veered a bit too far into Star Trek territory for my taste. Hey, maybe Francesc can work on costumes for the inevitable sequel!

Trias
Another high-concept Spanish designer, Joaquin Trias based his fall collection on "Vertical Strength," meaning, basically, vertical lines; his previous collection, "Lineal Study," was based on conical shapes and contained many dresses that evoked the Guggenheim Museum. The concept was apparent throughout every look, with strong vertical lines occurring in collarless jackets, A-line skirts, and apron-like dresses. While some of the garments had beautiful movement, such as front and back panels that floated away from the body while in motion, the 24-look collection seemed a bit narrow in focus--rather than show a handful of ideas in several colorways each, I would've preferred to see more exploration of such a strong, striking concept.

Davidelfin
Madrid-based designer Davidelfin is all about gender bending; he puts broad-shouldered suits on women, pleated miniskirts on men, and shocking pink on both. His collection today, a study in black, white, and gray (with a little neon thrown in) was a Jil Sander-esque study in minimalism. Some of the styling tricks gave a subtle nod to Michael Jackson: All models, male and female, wore white gloves to accent the hands, and the women wore skyscraper-high Louboutins that drew attention to their feet. And, like Jackson, Davidelfin carries an androgynous undercurrent that manages to be both sterile and sexy at the same time.

Where & When: Tuesday, September 15th at 9 p.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Toni Francesc is the only 9 p.m. show I attended during Fashion Week, and it came at the end of a very long day; I went primarily because I had an assigned seat, and also out of curiosity--Francesc is a Spanish designer showing in New York for the first time. His collection was inspired by the "poetry of water," and in case we missed the rhapsodic program notes, the show started with a several-minutes-long film depicting water in its various states. I'm sure this was intended to set a mood, but since I had a glass of wine while waiting to get into the venue, all it did was make me have to pee. Once the actual show started--to the sound of dripping water, which did nothing to help my bladder situation--we were treated to droopily draped dresses in drab colors; apparently in Francesc's world, the water is murky. This point was further driven by the strange lighting design: While in many shows the lights are so bright that you almost need sunglasses, it was so dark in this show that I had trouble seeing the looks at all. The situation was not helped, either, by the fact that there was no run-of-show sheet included in the packet of materials, so I can't even tell you what any of the fabrics were. What I can tell you is that many of the dresses, skirts, and pants seemed to be suffering from an overabundance of fabric around the hips, and if it doesn't look good on a size-2 model, it's not going to be flattering on a "real" woman either. Do Spanish women not have hips?
Standout Look: This trenchcoat was one of the more structured pieces in the show, and it helped tone down the volume of the fluttery charmeuse top and bubble-like shorts.
Bonus Points: The gift bag, strangely, was one of the best I've received this season, with a T-shirt, Tous makeup, and multiple Spanish haircare samples inside.
Where to Buy: The Toni Francesc boutique in Barcelona, Spain