Showing posts with label Buckler. Show all posts

Spring 2011 Men's Quickies: Buckler, Mik Cire & Perry Ellis

Buckler
If you are a guy and you want to look good, I'd suggest heading straight to Buckler. Seriously, these are some of the coolest clothes for dudes, and that's why I keep going to Andrew Buckler's show, in spite of the fact that I don't really cover menswear at Cheryl Shops. For spring, Buckler was inspired by Bauhaus and the 1924 Olympics, which translated into slim cropped pants, sleeveless trench coats, and some lightly textured knits. I have a feeling the harem pants and underwear-as-outerwear long-john pants won't catch on, but for guys who complain about summer heat, there were quite a few good-looking pairs of shorts, perfectly cut to be not too baggy, not too skinny.

Mik Cire Eric Kim
Ok, I just realized that Mik Cire is Eric Kim backwards. Anyway, Eric Kim is another men's designer that I've followed for a few seasons now--he used to design Monarchy, a Los Angeles label that has since devolved into a Jersey Shore aesthetic. Mik Cire is far more sophisticated, with layering-friendly tees, jackets, and lightweight sweaters in a chiefly neutral palette--I picture hot young actors wearing these clothes to auditions. The superslim leather jackets deserve a special callout, although I was particulary taken with the slim cargo pants and actually cool-looking plaid shorts (pictured here) as well. And, it should be noted, a completely random mix of celebs were in the front row: Alan Cumming, Shannon Elizabeth, Perry Farrell, and Mr. & Ms. Jay from America's Next Top Model.

Perry Ellis
The first thing I noticed at the Perry Ellis show was that the male models walked at such a breakneck speed, they were nearly running down the runway. The second was that the models were much beefier and, well, American-looking than in the other men's events, which is fitting, because Perry Ellis is definitely an all-American kind of label. For spring 2011, the Perry Ellis guy will be wearing bright orange and peach mixed with powder blue, although the wardrobe staples like trench coats and blazers came in a more understated series of khaki, navy, and black. The rows of retail executives seated directly across from me had huge grins throughout the show, which means the line will sell. Now, back to those models--the reward for sitting through 45 looks (which, however, did move at a good clip) was the final run-through, in which they changed into swim trunks, many without shirts. Good news: the six-pack is alive and well. Also, bonus points for the music, a very indie mix of The Drums, Beach House, and Best Coast.

Fall 2010 quickie: Buckler, Carlos Campos, Callula Lillibelle & Commonwealth Utilities

In the interest of saving time (and my own sanity), I present several quick takes on some of the smaller presentations I've seen.

Buckler
I have a male friend who claims he checks out guys more than girls--not because he's attracted to them but because he likes how they're dressed. For any guy who finds himself in a similar situation, I suggest marching yourself over to one of Buckler's two NYC stores and stocking up on everything from the slim-slouchy suits to the nice-looking parkas and perfectly aged jeans. Practical yet stylish and very all-American, this collection inspired by Kerouac's On the Road is exactly how cool guys like to dress. One quibble: I could understand why attendee (and noted woman-beater) Chris Brown would want to hitch his wagon to Buckler's; what's puzzling is why Buckler would want to hitch his wagon to Brown's.

Carlos Campos
Honduran designer Carlos Campos was inspired by charro suits (traditionally worn by mariachi bands) for his fall collection, but thankfully, aside from some high-waisted, snug-fitting trousers, the interpretation was not so literal. My favorite piece, which was a bit of an anomaly in the mostly tailored collection, was this low-V draped dress, which had a low-key sexy vibe.

Callula Lillibelle
Callula Lillibelle is a new label with a lot of L's in its name and a catchy talking point: It's a "desk to dinner" line meant to dress the modern working woman. With a respectable lineup of draped sheath dresses, peplum pencil skirts, and feminine ruffled blouses, the most appealing aspect of the collection is its prices, all of which will be under $400 retail.

Commonwealth Utilities
From what I could see from my third-row perch, which was from the waist up, Anthony Keegan and Richard Christansen (full disclosure: Richard is an acquaintance of mine) presented a sharp-looking lineup of military-inspired casual looks and polished geek-chic suits under the theme of "an officer and a gentleman" for their fledgling Commonwealth Utilities line. While the raw-space venue was a bit perilous, guests were compensated with hot cider and (empty) flasks, and after looking at other women all day, it was a refreshing change to see so many well-groomed, well-dressed, (presumably) straight men.