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Nicholas K
Always the first official show of the week, Nicholas K is like a fashion amuse bouche: It awakens my appetite for the new season. Signature Nicholas K themes were in heavy rotation—great-looking jackets, draped tops, slouchy pants—but the color scheme this season seemed desert-inspired, beginning with sandy beige and transitioning to a delicious sunset orange (or rust, as it was called in the program). However, I later discovered, according to the press release, that the designers were inspired by the '70s Charleton Heston movie Soylent Green, which explained the super-groovy retro-futuristic styling and the earthy palette. "Soylent Green is people!"

Kaelen
Due to a meeting that ran over, I sadly didn't quite make it to Kaelen, but Mina did, hence this beautiful photo. Mina's review of the show via text message: "Nice! Less boho than previous years." My take? I like the more minimal, sophisticated direction she's taking, and I spotted at least one gown (the black with the nude cutouts) that would look amazing on my style idol, Gwyneth Paltrow.
Photos by Mina Kim



Chadwick Bell
For spring Chadwick Bell actually did take inspiration from the desert, the Southwest to be specific, yet with a more minimal, austere interpretation via nude, black, and white minimal dresses with sculptured peplums and really interesting sheer insets. These eventually gave way to a more ornate series of guipure lace looks in green, pink, and gold. In spite of these striking contrasts, the collection had a uniting factor in that everything was quite ladylike, with reasonable hems and bra-friendly shapes. This was the first show I ever attended with a piped-in fragrance, and I will say, Scent of Nirvana by 12.29 smelled, you guessed it, like heaven.


Tadashi Shoji
For spring 2013, Tadashi Shoji took a tour of Venice, Kazakhstan, the Gobi Desert, and Xi'an, resulting in a sweetly feminine collection heavy on lace, particularly of the Chantilly variety. Overall, the silhouettes were a bit looser than normal (you can eat dessert!), however there were some sexy banded lace gowns, which could be the thinking woman's bandage dress. More good news for comfort lovers: The shoes were either kitten-heeled or flat. Overall, colors were bright, with blue and jade green dominating, but my favorite looks were a series of watercolor ikat-print gowns hopefully coming to a red carpet near you sometime soon.
Photos by Mina Kim

When & where: Thursday, February 9 at 2 p.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: The show notes for Tadashi Shoji noted that his fall collection was inspired by the golden age of Shanghai, however with so many soigné evening frocks in luxurious washed velvet, ethereal Chantilly lace, and embroidered silk tulle, I immediately thought of Lady Mary Grantham, the heroine (of sorts) of PBS's Downton Abbey, currently my favorite show on TV, hands down. The dropped-waist silhouettes and demurely sleeved styles would be perfect for a post-dinner discussion of future heirs or misbehaving servants. As always, Tadashi's bright, rich colors were in full effect; the silhouettes, looser and with more elongated proportions, were new but are still certain to flatter a wide range of body types—there's a reason actresses like Octavia Spencer turn to Tadashi for their red-carpet looks. Perhaps she'll wear one of these to the Oscars in a few weeks.

Bonus points: While at most shows one gets pounded with electronic or rock music, Tadashi's selection was much more mellow, starting with the titular James Bond song "You Only Live Twice," coincidentally, the second time I heard a Nancy Sinatra song today (Nicholas K opened with "Bang Bang").

Where to buy: Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale's.

Why am I putting Nicholas K and Tadashi Shoji together in one post? The long answer is that they pretty much run the gamut of what's shown during New York Fashion Week: Nicholas K makes grungy, casual, yet totally wearable and accessible sportswear while Tadashi Shoji makes equally accessible yet much fancier gowns for special occasions. The short answer is that these were the only two shows I went to on Thursday, the official start of Fashion Week. Aren't you glad you asked?

Nicholas K's layering-heavy look may be slightly formulaic, but its grunge ethos seems more aligned to fall/winter, so it's always interesting to see how they interpret their signature elements for warmer weather. In this case, it was lighter colors--ivory and cream, but also a dusty teal, a sea green, and even some tie-dyed indigo pieces. Transparency factored into the layers, making it all seem light in spite of the multiple components. Nicholas K's girl might put the plaid and leather away for the season, but her draped duster jackets and granny dresses are alive and well--albeit in more airy, diaphanous fabrics.

And while Nicholas K's slightly tomboyish customer is likely tuning her bass or challenging her cute downstairs neighbor to a game of pool at a bar somewhere in Williamsburg, Tadashi Shoji's is probably, at this moment, stepping out of her party dress, putting a piece of wedding cake under her pillow, and dreaming of the man she's going to marry. His über-feminine collection was inspired by tulips, which translated into lovely hand-painted fabrics, many with unexpectedly modern striped motifs, and petal-like details. Many styles featured widely flattering asymmetrical necklines; several of the tiered and blouson looks, however, only look good on models (and in the case of the blouson styles, even that is debatable). With embroidered lace, tulle, and silk chiffon throughout, it was all very light and dreamy and romantic--nothing like real-life romance for most of us, but that's the fantasy Tadashi Shoji is selling, and I think a lot of women out there will be buying it.

When & Where: Thursday, February 10 at 4 p.m., the Studio, Lincoln Center
Runway Recap: Tadashi Shoji tends to be inspired by accessible, natural things like light, trees, birds, etc., and his fall collection was no exception--the theme was the harmony of Far East gardens, and while the references might not always be glaringly obvious (which, I think is actually a good thing), they definitely work for Shoji. His dresses are beautifully made and quietly elegant; each one is like a zen masterpiece. For fall, he showed a series of jewel-toned draped wool jersey and silk crepe day dresses, transitioning into evening with strapless feather-fringed cocktail dresses, and finally into gathered Grecian-style silk chiffon gowns and embellished organza showstoppers. I thought the simpler looks were more successful and more interesting than the embellished ones, but overall it was, as they say, a very sellable collection.
Standout Look: The series of pleated silk chiffon gowns were my favorite in the show--there's just something so classic and ethereal about this type of dress, and yet the warm yellow hue (sunglow, as Shoji called it) looks fresh and modern.
Bonus Points: One of my favorite models, Bruna Tenorio, walked in the show, and her angular beauty was the perfect complement to the softness of the dresses.
Where to Buy: Click here to find a store.

Tadashi Shoji
Thank god fashion shows are only 10 minutes long max, because they are intense for everyone involved. I spend them scrutinizing the clothes, taking photos, taking notes, and thinking about the big picture, i.e. what is the point of this show and what does it all mean? (Ok, maybe my thoughts aren't that deep, but I do ponder what I'm going to write about in my review.) Thankfully, with Tadashi Shoji, you don't have to think so much, and I mean that as a total compliment. His dresses are simply beautiful, and, really, that's all there is to it. This season he was inspired by Della Francesca and Botticelli, and the result was a series of icy-cool frocks, some with an obvious draped Grecian look, others that evoked flower petals. There were gowns, sheaths, cocktail dresses, and every last one was stunning. And sometimes stunning is all you need.

Kaelen
During Fashion Week, I always try to make time to see a handful of newer designers, and so I was glad I trekked out to West Chelsea Saturday morning, in spite of a rather pounding post-Fashion's Night Out hangover, to check out Kaelen Farncombe's latest collection. It was inspired by a tornado-chasing trip, which translated into beautifully streaky silk prints in pale shades of gray. It was all very minimalist, but in spite of the rainy theme, nothing felt cold or clinical. In fact, I found myself mentally shopping the collection, from the textured sweaters to the relaxed shorts suits. One of the most promising new designers I've seen, I can't wait to see what inspires Kaelen's next collection.

Yoana Baraschi
For the spring outing of her contemporary line, Yoana Baraschi took the theme of fallen angels and translated it somewhat literally into bird prints and a dress with a tiered feather skirt. Throughout were a series of sweet printed dresses, many with ruffles and fluttery sleeves, and very wearable separates, like a tie-waist ruffled jacket and a nice pair of wide-leg linen trousers. In the contemporary world, which often chases the super-trendy customer, it's always refreshing to see a designer embracing such an overtly feminine aesthetic. I know plenty of women who enjoy dressing this way, and well, they like to shop. Now I know where to send them.

Tadashi Shoji Spring 2009
Where & When: Friday, September 12th at noon, the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: This was a a spring collection, but it appears designer Tadashi Shoji was inspired by cracked ice, as refracted patterns and an icy-cool palette of white and dove gray dominated his show. Shoji played with sheer layers of silk organza, origami-like pleating, and pretty cascades of ruffles; metallic fringed numbers suggested icicles. But this wasn't merely all artiness; trend-right sporty anoraks, paperbag waists, and a series of one-shouldered looks kept the collection current.
Standout Look: I love the play of textures here--the sheer anorak and the metallic fringed skirt--and pairing with a simple white tank top keeps the look young and fresh.
Bonus Points: The cracked-ice pattern seen throughout the collection was projected onto the ceiling and walls of the tent as we walked in, immediately setting the tone for the beautiful designs to follow.
Where to Buy: Saks, Bloomindale's, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom