Cheryl Shops

Carlos Miele Fall 2008
Where & When: Wednesday, February 6th at 1 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Designers often cite architecture as their inspiration in certain collections, to varying degrees of success. But in Carlos Miele's case, I could definitely see the swirling forms of Frank Gehry in the beautifully constructed asymmetrical dresses and industrial-but-organic prints that he sent down the runway. Miele, a Brazilian, is clearly a designer who loves the female form, and with the exception of the too-chunky sweaters, his designs showcase one's curves in a lovely, flattering manner.
Standout Look: Miele always has great chiffon dresses, and the asymmetrical construction of this one made for a stunning silhouette.
Bonus Points: After hearing about model Karlie Kloss' robot-death-stare runway walk all week, I finally got to witness it firsthand, and I can report that it's awesome--I haven't seen a strut that unique since Iekeliene Stange's sway-backed clomping (which I also love).
Where to Buy: the Carlos Miele boutique on 14th Street

Malan Breton Fall 2008
Where & When: Wednesday, February 6th at 9 a.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: A Malan Breton show is usually an exercise in ruffles, feathers, fur, velvet, and beading, so the streamlined, simple look of his fall collection looked almost minimalist in comparison. Breton was inspired by Catherine Deneuve in her early career (think Belle du Jour and The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, which happens to be one of my favorite movies), and considering Deneuve is a fashion icon, this was no easy feat. There were some sharply tailored jackets and coats, and while his sheath dresses were chic and well-made, there were far too many of them.
Standout Look: The groovy cropped patent leather jacket captured the mod '60s inspiration perfectly, while this wide-leg trouser had an innovative design with side panels that tied across the back for a languid, lean look.
Bonus Points: It was a Project Runway reunion in the front row, with Angela Keslar, Diana Eng, Katherine Gerdes, and Emmett McCarthy all representing.
Where to Buy: The Malan Breton website

Joanna Mastroianni Fall 2008
Where & When: Tuesday, February 5th at 6 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Pretty much every designer showing in New York dabbles in eveningwear to some extent. For dramatic effect, these looks often come at the end of a runway show, often to much oohing and aahing from the audience. However, there's a difference between the typical bias-cut charmeuse gown and the pure artistry of a true eveningwear designer. Joanna Mastroianni falls into this latter category. Her shows do feature daytime looks, but her gowns are exquisitely detailed and carry a true sophistication that, well, all the designers showing trendy hip-slung trousers and vests can only hope to achieve someday. Her fall collection was inspired by Morocco, which translated into everything from ornate beading that evoked mosaic tiles to more sleek looks with geometric cutouts, with a healthy dose of spicy colors sprinkled throughout. Instead of veering into costumey territory, Mastroianni kept the theme on this side of tasteful.
Standout Look: This silk evening gown had so much going on, I didn't know where to look--a plunging neckline, a lapis-blue lining, and an ornately embroidered back panel.
Bonus Points: The designer's pomeranian took a turn down the runway, carried in the arms of a model during the final runway walk. After days of looking at strikingly beautiful women, it was nice to have a bit of cuteness.
Where to Buy: Kleinfeld, Neiman Marcus, Saks

Badgley Mischka Fall 2008
Where & When: Tuesday, February 5th at 10 a.m. in the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Badgley Mischka took their Uptown Girl out for a night on the town at Studio 54--tastefully so, of course. Tiny bits of leopard print, subtle metallics, and luxe fur vests upped the glam factor while airy chiffon blouses and amazingly well-cut wide-leg trousers kept everything grounded in luxury. For day, there were pencil-skirted suits for day, rich brocades in autumnal tones, and some great bishop-sleeve dresses in retro prints. For evening, lightly sequined jewel-toned charmeuse and hand-painted chiffon gowns flowed into the duo's signature ornately beaded gowns in shades of silver and gold, all surely to appear soon on the red carpet, because, as everyone knows, Badgley Mischka makes glamour look effortless.
Standout Look: The sequined bodice and subtly variegated skirt of this gown look chic and fresh, not fussy, and I bet it all reads great on camera. Are you listening, Oscar nominees?
Bonus Points: A rare Anna Wintour spotting!
Where to Buy: Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks

TIBI Fall 2008
Where & When: Tuesday, February 5th at 9 a.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Few things get me out of bed so early in the morning, but I'll gladly wake up for a TIBI show. For fall, designer Amy Smilovic took a trip back to the '70s, with low-key glam Ice Storm hostess gowns, Annie Hall tailored three-piece suits, and groovy dresses in varying lengths. As always, TIBI had a smattering of great prints, from a hippie-chic Southwestern motif to a stylized tree pattern. But the great joy in seeing a TIBI show is knowing that not only are the clothes wearable, they're also attainable--thankfully, no $5,000 dresses here.
Standout Look: While I loved the printed dresses, this was my favorite look, if only because it looks exactly like something I'd wear. Also note the knee-highs (these are part of the upcoming TIBI for Hue capsule collection), which have been popping up on a lot of runways.
Bonus Points: Not only were the gorgeous Caroline Trentini and my current fave Coco Rocha on the runway, Saleisha from America's Next Top Model also took a turn, and I begrudgingly admit she did a good job.
Where to Buy: shopbop.com, Saks, Bloomingdale's, and the TIBI store on Wooster

Iodice Fall 2008
Where & When: Monday, February 4th at 9 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Iodice is a huge fashion force in its native Brazil, and while the lower-priced jersey-based collection has been available in the U.S. for awhile now, this show marked the first presentation of the higher-end designer line on our shores. Inspired by graffiti--thankfully in a more abstract sense--Iodice sent one flirty, fluid minidress after another down the runway. Arty prints and colorblocking met exposed zippers, interesting pleats, and transparency to create party-girl frocks so awesome, you might want to rework your social schedule to accommodate all of them.
Standout Look: This burnout-silk dress was styled just how a pretty young thing would wear it: with a cropped leather jacket, opaque tights, and sky-high platforms.
Bonus Points: The designer, Valdemar Iodice, took a full lap on the runway to enthusiastic applause from the audience.
Where to Buy: CoutureCandy, LabelSpree, Revolve Clothing

Ports 1961 Fall 2008
Where & When: Monday, February 4th at 7 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: The Ports 1961 show is usually a more quiet affair, but last night's show was packed to the rafters with magazine editors, starlets, and department-store buyers; I guess word finally got out that the line is one to watch. Or, more likely, that designer Tia Cibani's travel-inspired collection--this time, the destination was the Scottish Highlands--is filled with work-friendly, wearable, but still thoughtful pieces, a wise investment in these uncertain times. As one would expect, there was a healthy dose of plaid (a big trend for fall), as well as some smart tweed suits, but to me, the best pieces were the slim but elegantly draped dresses, which I suspect will still be popular come fall.
Standout Look: I always love a little velvet for fall, but while the fabric has the tendency to look stiff, Cibani's velvet dresses were fluid and draped for a soft, flattering silhouette.
Bonus Points: The Ports 1961 gift is always a bit on the wack-a-doo side and this time was no exception. The Fug Girls put it best: "knitted horns on necklaces, punctuated with buttons? We don't know how else to explain them."
Where to Buy: Saks Fifth Avenue, Ports1961.com

Terexov Fall 2008
Where & When: Sunday, February 3rd at 9 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: When I think "Russian fashion," I think blonde, cleavage, huge designer logos, animal prints, furs, and so on. Fortunately, Russian designer Alexandr Terekhov has a far more sophisticated, refined style, especially considering the fact that he's a mere 29 years old. Simple but luxe belted jersey dresses, puffy parkas, and chic suits appeal to the working woman, whether in Moscow or, say, another cold and dreary city like Chicago. After so many sheer blouses and microminis on other runways, it was a delight to see so many wearable clothes.
Standout Look: Terekhov is Russian after all, so there was quite a bit of leather on the runway, my favorite of which was this quilted gray miniskirt, paired with a wintry white cashmere sweater.
Bonus Points: Nigel Barker was in the front row, but he couldn't hold a candle to the designer himself, who, should his design career falter, could take to the runway as a male model. See? He's a cutie!
Where to Buy: His website is in Russian, so your guess is as good as mine.

Tuleh Fall 2008
Where & When: Sunday, February 3rd at 7 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Rundown: I skipped the Sunday-morning and -afternoon shows to catch up on my sleep and post some reviews, and by the time I made it back to Bryant Park on Sunday evening, the atmosphere was almost serene. Of course, that was probably due to the fact that the Super Bowl was being played at the same time; I got seats at both shows, though, so I'm not complaining! Anyway, designer Bryan Bradley, who's now working on helping Lord & Taylor modernize its image, presented a colorful collection that celebrated, in the days leading up to Super Tuesday, our great country. Full, tea-length 1950s skirts mixed with classic cable-knit sweaters and prim belted suit jackets, and the '70s came into play with fabulous fur-trimmed dressing gowns and, for lack of a better word, pimp hats. It was all very happy and hopeful, which, in these uncertain times, is a welcome sentiment.
Standout Look: While there were some fabulously luxe long cardigans, I liked this vivid metallic-stripe sweater and full skirt ensemble. After so many minis and bubble hems, the dirndl skirt looked incredibly fresh to me.
Bonus Points: From Madonna's "American Life" to Nirvana's "Come as You Are" and Timbaland's "The Way I Are," the music was refreshingly all over the place.
Where to Buy: Bergdorf Goodman

Akiko Ogawa Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 9 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: If I were to summarize this show with one phrase, it would be "business in the front, party in the back." No, there were no mullets to be seen, but Ogawa's sharply tailored jackets and voluminous gowns often erupted in exaggerated peplums, bustles, ruffles, and general clumps of fabric as the models turned back down the runways. There were also several pieces with hologram fringe, which added to the madcap feel of the collection. All a bit odd, yes, but the designer is Japanese; picture these looks on the streets of Harajuku and it all begins to make sense.
Standout Look: For those of us who don't rock the Japanese-street-fashion look, the layered chiffon cocktail dresses with Swarovski crystals make for fun party frocks.
Bonus Points: The shoes in this collection were stellar, especially the chunky platform motorcycle boots. Want. Them. Bad.
Where to Buy: Somewhere in Japan, perhaps?

Ruffian Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 8 p.m., New Dance Group
Runway Recap: I have no idea how I got invited to this show, but I'm glad I did. The setting was super-intimate, the coolest models were in the show (Agyness Deyn, Irina Lazareanu), and, most importantly, the clothes were very rock-and-roll. Inspired by the designers' days at New England boarding schools, the collection was Gossip Girl mixed with Rebel Without a Cause. Standout pieces included skinny suits, rockabilly dresses, and graffiti-inspired prints, and I was blown away by a dress with a needlepoint graffiti design. One thing's for certain: No one dressed this cool at my high school.
Standout Look: I had a hard time picking a favorite look, so here's Agyness rocking a floor-sweeping coat and glam-rock skinny pants, courtesy of Ruffian's collaboration with Earnest Sewn. Note to self: Go buy a pair of Harlow jeans. Now.
Bonus Points: I even had backstage access at this show, and if there's anything more glamorous than attending a fashion show, it's going backstage at one. It's just as you'd expect: models primping and posing for photographers, friends and well-wishers, and general fabulousness.
Where to Buy: See website

Sass & Bide Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 7 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: This show marked the Australian duo's return to the tents after co-designer Heidi Middleton's battle with cancer, and the theme--rainbows--was an uplifting one. Colorful and whimsical, nearly every look incorporated rainbows and many featured girly ruffles. These were fun party clothes for starlets--Nicky Hilton sat in the front row, and I'm sure Lindsay Lohan will be all over the ruched leggings.
Standout Look: The woven ribbons on this dress reminded me of these colorful nylon pot holders I used to make when I was a child; my mom, bless her heart, still uses them.
Bonus Points: Niki Taylor and all of the Make Me a Supermodels were in the audience; Perry is just as hot as you'd expect him to be, if not more so.
Where to Buy: Bloomingdale's, Saks, Cantaloup

Verrier Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 6 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Ashleigh Verrier's collection was so polished, it's hard to believe she graduated from Parsons just over three years ago. (Seriously--she could teach several seasoned designers a thing or two about how to put on a show.) Inspired by Imperial Russia and Fabergé eggs, her designs were unapologetically feminine and polished, but not sickeningly sweet. Many pieces sparkled with Swarovski crystals, but Verrier countered the glitz with understated mohair, velvet, and chiffon. If you shop at Anthropologie now, this is what to aspire to.
Standout Look: From the gigot-sleeve coat to the airy taffeta camisole and the metallic brocade skirt, this ensemble is pure pretty-pretty-princess perfection.
Bonus Points: No nipples here--the models all wore nude bras. That's right, bras. This blew me away; I don't think I've ever seen undergarments on a runway before. See, I told you Verrier is a class act.
Where to Buy: Nordstrom

Alexandre Herchcovitch Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd in the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: After 12 or so all-black, pod-like dresses and capelets, Herchcovich sent out a kaleidoscope of plaids, rainbow stripes, and colorblocks sure to please downtown types. A little avant-garde, yes, but the bold colors were like a ray of hope--something we can all use.
Standout Look: There's something about this swirly rainbow dress that just makes me happy (and I'm glad that the bull's-eye is below the hip area).
Bonus Points: Those who had a seat got a cute, souveniry tote bag (sadly, however, I was not one of them).
Where to Buy: www.herchcovitchloja.com.br

Mara Hoffman Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 2 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Some fashion snobs write off knitwear designers as unimaginative and catering to the masses, but Mara Hoffman's truly innovative patterns and chic shapes should dispel that generalization. From drapey cardigans to slinkier jersey pieces, I wanted nearly every piece that came down the runway, making this show an early contender for favorite show of the week.
Standout Look: This jersey dress with matching cardigan-jacket sported a unique, exotic print; I'd wear it day into night.
Bonus Points: From the headscarves to the holster-like bags, Hoffman's accessories were just as aweseome as her clothing.
Where to Buy: shopbop.com, Pink Mascara

Araks Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 2 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: In the first part of a joint show with Mara Hoffman, Araks expanded on its luxe but smart lingerie collection with geeky-sexy cardigans, boyfriend blazers, and bermuda shorts--think of a graduate student borrowing her professor-boyfriend's clothes. The key to the collection was in the contrast between the boxy basics and the sexy sheer layers.
Standout Look: The oversized vest and sheer henley are made for layering, while the chartreuse (trend alert!) layer adds a hint of color to this all-gray ensemble.
Bonus Points: The dorky glasses on the models complemented the intellectual bent of the collection.
Where to Buy: Barneys, Henri Bendel, and a host of other stores (see Araks.com)

Thuy Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 11 a.m., Exit Art
Runway Recap: I'm not going to mince words--this show was the biggest shitstorm since Kai Kuhne's show last February. Yes, the mimosas and truffles were a nice touch, but that didn't excuse the hour-plus wait, or the half-assed runway, which required the hundreds of attendees to squish up against the walls. The photographers had to give the models stage direction, and at least one model rolled her eyes in exasperation. Until the models all stood around at the end for us to inspect their garments up close, I could see only from the neck up (I will say, however, that the hair and makeup were beautiful). Say what you want about the three-ring circus that is the Bryant Park tents, but this sort of thing would never happen there.
Standout Look: Thuy had some interesting ideas in terms of finishing and layering; I liked the contrast here between the purple dress, the teal tights, and the beige shoes.
Bonus Points: Strangely enough, the best swag bag to date, with MAC makeup, Ted Gibson hairspray, Aveeno lotion, and a tiny piece of MarieBelle chocolate.
Where to Buy: See website for details

FORM Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd at 10 a.m., The New Museum Sky Room
Runway Report: Downtown hipsters were crammed into the New Museum's tiny top-floor space, but the panoramic view of downtown Manhattan made the perfect backdrop for FORM's sculptural, asymmetrical pieces. While some of the dresses looked a bit shapeless and even burka-like when paired with the ubiquitous headscarves, the strongest pieces to me were the deconstructed suits with their intelligent jackets and perfect skinny pants.
Standout Look: Those suits (I will post a photo as soon as I can find one).
Bonus Points: I was directly across from Niki Taylor, Tyson Beckford, and the other two judges from Make Me a Supermodel; the remaining girls walked in the show (for what it's worth, I thought Shannon was the best).
Where to Buy: Oak, Curve

Venexiana by Kati Stern Fall 2008
Where & When: Friday, February 1st at 9 p.m. in the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: The 9 o'clock shows are always a toss-up--people are either exhausted from having been at shows all day, or they're drunk from hitting the tents' corporate-sponsored bars. I think the audience at Venexiana fell into the latter category, as they seemed incredibly enthusiastic about the collection, even giving the designer a standing ovation. I'm not quite sure why. Stern could have benefited from some editing--the show had a whopping 62 looks, many with Swarovski crystals and/or fur accents. And apparently she has not met a luxe fabric she hasn't liked, because she piled 'em on--fur! lamé! brocade! metallic lace! metallic tweed!--all at once. There's a difference between putting on a show and putting on a spectacle.
Standout Look: The best pieces were a series of 1930s bias-cut gowns and dresses, and this satin style was, thankfully, downright simple and elegant.
Bonus Points: I had my first, and hopefully not my last, sighting of everyone's favorite "noted fashion photographer," Nigel Barker.
Where to Buy: See website for details

Na•Be by Victorya Hong
Where & When: Friday, February 1st at 8 p.m., Metropolitan Pavilion
Runway Recap: Love her or hate her, you have to admit that Project Runway designer Victorya Hong is talented--she won three challenges before getting auffed last week with her chic but uninspired denim trench. Reading her program notes about being a "child of the '80s" made me a bit nervous, but Hong sent out a rather polished collection of work-friendly separates. The '80s inspiration came across in slim but slouchy trousers, shoulder-padded jackets, and shots of chartreuse. No leggings or dolman sleeves here--it's all a more polished, sophisticated way to wear the resurgent '80s looks.
Standout Look: Blazers and trousers like these were tailored so well, I'm almost upset we didn't see more of them on Project Runway.
Bonus Points: Christian, Elisa, and Jack, as well as Jay McCarroll from season one, made the front row seem like a Project Runway reunion.
Where to Buy: Victorya's website