Showing posts with label Alexandre Herchcovitch. Show all posts

New York Fashion Week Fall 2013: Jill Stuart, Son Jung Wan, Mara Hoffman, Christian Siriano & Alexandre Herchcovitch

Jill Stuart
Remember the other day when I mentioned how Mina got invited to some awesome shows? Count Jill Stuart among them. For fall, Stuart showed a lot of party dresses, many of them in interesting textures, and many of them in black—by the way, for fall 2013, black is the new black. Really.



Son Jung Wan
 And while many designers have gone back to black for fall, Son Jung Wan opted for anything but, starting with pale nude and cream, dabbling in camel and beige, and finishing in rich shades of teal, burgundy, and violet. As usual, she used a luxurious range of materials, from cozy-looking wool bouclé to fur, including a deliciously extravagant top made out of mink, but her silhouette has become closer to the body and her pieces finished with beautiful raw-edged seams or just enough fur trim. None of these looks would be out of place on the Upper East Side; if only one could buy them in the U.S...






Mara Hoffman
In her program notes, Mara Hoffman noted that she "wanted to embrace what we do best with this collection and give our girls what they love most—color, prints, and wearable yet unique silhouettes." I couldn't describe her fall 2013 collection better myself. All of Hoffman's signature elements were there, but they felt anything but stale. In fact, Hoffman seemed invigorated. She translated her signature mystical-folkloric prints into embroideries, decorating everything from pretty chiffon gowns to jackets paired with coordinating pants. She also layered a lot of looks—perfectly cozy ponchos, embellished caftans, and gorgeous-looking belted coats—over leather leggings, which is good news, because I just bought a pair and they are the bomb. And lest I forget the dresses, they came in all shapes, from short and snug to floor-sweeping and voluminous. If you're like me, you'll probably want one of each. 



Christian Siriano
  
Can you believe Christian Siriano has been showing at Fashion Week for 10 seasons now? By leaps and bounds, the most successful Project Runway contestant to date, Siriano now has his own store in Nolita in addition to his ongoing shoe line for Payless, and his clothes are carried everywhere from Neiman Marcus nationwide to tony boutiques like Stanley Korshak and Neopolitan. And his show this season was packed to the rafters with buyers, journalists, and celebrities (I spotted Brad Goreski, Jamie King, and Ashlee Simpson in the front row), which is always a good sign, as were the cluster of crystal chandeliers dangling over the runway. Fall was an ode to the Russian Opera, primarily in black in gold. Siriano's day looks were primarily the former, with interesting textured knits, lots of leather, and faux-fur accents, while for evening, he let loose with gold filigree, beading, and sequins on tulle and mesh backing. It was all, as Siriano would say on Project Runway, ferosh. 


Alexandre Herchcovitch

I spend some days at Fashion Week 100% in the tents at Lincoln Center, and I spend some running all over town—many designers, like Siriano, show in gallery spaces in Chelsea, and then there's Milk Studios in the Meatpacking District, which I'd been avoiding for several seasons after the dreaded Stairway Incident. But after Siriano and a breaky-break at the Hotel Gansevoort, the last thing I felt like doing was schlepping back uptown, so I made a little switcheroo in my schedule and headed to Milk for Alexandre Herchcovitch, and let me tell you, I'm glad I did. Herchcovitch is generally quite avant-garde and thus usually not my cup of tea, but his fall collection was equally beautiful and witty. The colors and prints were quite lovely, evocative of a garden, and while the first few looks were pretty straightforward, slowly, as the show went on, the clothes seemed to fall apart like petals. Herchcovitch drew an even more interesting parallel with the last series of looks, which exposed lingerie while the models' dresses hung around their waists in a state of déshabillé. I had a smile on my face the entire time, which just goes to show, maybe sometimes you need to try a different flavor of tea—you never know what you might end up liking. 


Jill Stuart, Son Jung Wan & Mara Hoffman photos by Mina Kim. 

New York Fashion Week Day 3: Ruffian, Son Jung Wan, Mara Hoffman, Rafael Cennamo, Christian Siriano, Alexandre Herchcovitch & Monique Lhuillier

On the weekends, Fashion Week starts to get a bit chaotic, both in terms of the schedule and the crowds. Thus, Mina and I ended up dividing and conquering, although we still didn't quite make it to everything. (We did, however, both make it to the Birchbox suite, which was probably the highlight of our day.) Here's what we did see.


Ruffan
The Ruffian boys must be gluttons for punishment, because for some reason they keep taking the 9 a.m. Saturday slot, which, as much as I love the line, is just too damn early to get me out of bed. Mina, however, lives in Manhattan and has a much shorter commute than I do, so she made it, god bless her. Her text-message review: "It was good!" Reportedly, the show was inspired by Williamsburg. Let's take a look, shall we?




Son Jung Wan
Son Jung Wan's show started off promisingly with a bright canary-yellow pleated chiffon number, followed by a series of sherbet-colored flowing tops and peplum dresses that were cheery and summery. It's clear Wan is a skilled technician who's eager to showcase her handiwork, however as the show went on, the looks became more and more overwrought, with appliqués that tended to overpower even the six-foot-tall models. A little editing would have done a world of good. 

 
Mara Hoffman
There were no shamans or mystics at Mara Hoffman's show this season; judging by words like "aloha" and "surf" in the run of show and the ukelele players who began the affair, she went straight to Hawaii, and it suited her signature prints quite well. The colors were bright, the patterns kaleidoscopic, and the silhouettes were a bit looser than normal, the better to hide a belly full of pina coladas. Well, except for a handful of bra tops, an emerging trend this season. Speaking of bra tops, Li'l Kim was in the audience, which was awesome, and, completely unrelated to bra tops, Hoffman's soundtrack included The Pixies' "Wave of Mutilation," which was even awesomer. I sang along, and the twentysomething blogger sitting next to me looked at me like I was nuts. That was not so awesome.


Rafael Cennamo
There are some total randoms who show at Fashion Week, and sometimes I go because they're showing in the right place at the right time and, hey, I'm curious. I'll admit, Rafael Cennamo is a designer I knew very little about before this, and after seeing his spring collection, I now feel like an a-hole, because holy Ferocia Coutura, his eveningwear is amazing. I'm talking straight-up couture quality, with the most ornate beadwork this side of Lesage and soutache that brought tears to my eyes. Ok, Rafael, you have my attention now. 

 



Christian Siriano
Christian Siriano's show always involves a schelpp out to the far reaches of West Chelsea, then an epically long check-in line followed by a long wait outside in either blistering heat (September) or freezing cold (February). There are few designers for whom I'd put up with this, but Siriano's show is always worth the wait, and his spring 2013 collection was his most refined one yet. He was inspired by the ballet, which is pretty much a surefire hit in my book, but while you might expect him to go all out with crazy tulle and feathers and satin, Siriano was incredibly restrained, with fluid day looks in dreamy pastels, refined metallics, and even subtle lace and brocade. The evening looks were breathtaking, with pearl-encrusted bodices, one (okay, one signature Siriano extravaganza) layered tulle confection, and, to finish the show, three pitch-perfect tulle party dresses that were pretty much the dream of every girl who's ever been to the ballet. And speaking of dreamy, I somehow ended up in the second row, which explains the quality of my photos here (yes, I took them myself!), but was even more exciting because for once, I could see the shoes. Payless fans, look for similar styles in stores next February. 



Alexandre Herchcovitch
Due to scheduing conflicts, Mina agreed to attend Brazilian avant-garde designer Alexandre Herchcovitch's show in my place, which normally is not a big deal, except the PR firm had my photo on record (high tech!) and, well, Mina and I look nothing alike, to put it mildly. Nevertheless, she got in—this is our one show this season at "cool kids" venue Made @ Milk—and this was our conversation about the show:
Mina: This collection looked like clown couture.
Me: Is that good or bad?!
Mina: Judge for yourself.

Monique Lhuiller
Two seasons ago, I got to bring a plus-one. Last season, I started in the third row and got pulled into the first, which was beyond awesome This season, Monique Lhuillier put me in the sixth row, which explains the rather unfortunate state of these photos. How far the mighty have fallen, right? Anyway, even if I had to watch Lhuillier crammed back in the standing section, I would. Her sinspiration this season was the ocean water and sea life within, with an emphasis on mermaids, and while the interpretation wasn't as literal as you'd expect in terms of color, it was beautiful nonetheless, with some of the dreamiest prints I've seen. Many of the looks had peplum-like panels at the hips, which created a womanly effect and evoked the lower half of a mermaid (yes, there were a good number of fishtail hems too). By the time the last few looks came down the runway—glittering, jewel-encrusted tulle gowns—I was ready to ditch life on land. After all, didn't Sebastian the crab say that life is better under the sea? Based on this show, I'd tend to agree. 
Alexandre Herchcovitch Fall 2008
Where & When: Saturday, February 2nd in the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: After 12 or so all-black, pod-like dresses and capelets, Herchcovich sent out a kaleidoscope of plaids, rainbow stripes, and colorblocks sure to please downtown types. A little avant-garde, yes, but the bold colors were like a ray of hope--something we can all use.
Standout Look: There's something about this swirly rainbow dress that just makes me happy (and I'm glad that the bull's-eye is below the hip area).
Bonus Points: Those who had a seat got a cute, souveniry tote bag (sadly, however, I was not one of them).
Where to Buy: www.herchcovitchloja.com.br