Cheryl Shops

Sunday was the halfway point of Fashion Week, and while the first four days were awesome, there's always a point soon thereafter where I start to lose it. I am a person who relishes her sleep (and her lazy weekends), so after running around all day on about 5 hours of sleep per night, by Monday I was Super Grumpy. I know, you're playing the world's smallest violin for me. I do love every minute of Fashion Week—I joke that I could watch fashion shows all day, every day—but I am human. And so I'd like to apologize to the PR girl I called "unprofessional and elitist" within earshot on Monday afternoon. Well, I still think that, but I shouldn't have said it out loud.

Carlos Miele
My day started out on a bright note—literally and figuratively—at Carlos Miele, whose pre-show was a sleepy affair until Vanessa Williams, Daisy Fuentes, and Paula Abdul (yes, Straight Up Paula Abdul) breezed in and were promptly mobbed by paparazzi. As for the action on the runway, Miele's notes cited a hallucinatory jungle, and that's a fairly accurate way to describe his lively collection. Giraffe, zebra, and leopard prints mixed and mingled, sometimes all in one dress, and Miele achieved the remarkable feat of making the color green look sexy. Then again, Miele makes pretty much everything look sexy, particularly his asymmetrically ruched dresses that create the most flattering effect across the hips and derriere. And Miele knows exactly what to do with that area—he is Brazilian, after all.

Marimekko
Its Brattle Street store in Cambridge was the hotspot for Radcliffe students in the '60s and '70s, but in recent years, the Finnish label Marimekko has been more widely known in this country for its home textiles (which are available in Crate & Barrel, for one). But for spring, fashion is a big focus for the company, with adorable shift dresses in relaxed shapes and bold, colorful prints. Fun clothes aside, this show was notable for two reasons: One, all the models were smiling. Two, it featured three "vintage" supermodels: Carol Alt, Pat Cleveland, and Carmen Dell'Orefice, all of whom were featured in the excellent recent HBO documentary about models, About Face, which I would highly recommend watching if you haven't already. The smiles and the models were a bit on the gimmicky side, but both made me smile, and, like I said earlier, by the fifth day of Fashion Week, a little happiness goes a long way.



Reem Acra

Continuing on the sexy streak she started last season (complete with a similar glossy black runway on which guests were not allowed to tread), Reem Acra showed a sleek collection of mostly midnight blue, white, red, and gold inspired by artist Aaron Young's motorcycle-inspired works. There were no biker jackets or otherwise obvious references; instead, Acra showed dangerously sexy sleek sheaths with sheer side cutouts, perforated leather day dresses, and lots of fluid pants and jumpsuits. But with all of Reem Acra shows, the gowns that closed the show were the main attraction, utilizing sheer fabrics, some as cutouts, some whipped into frothy ball gowns and embroidered with metallic thread or beads. They glittered, and any star would be smart to snap them up for the red carpet.

Libertine
I managed to miss or intentionally skip five shows in the afternoon, so I figured I'd end the day by stopping by the Libertine show at Pier 57, as it tends to be a fun one. (Note to self: Anything at Pier 57, at 11th Avenue and 15th Street, does not involve "stopping by" due to the considerable three-block crosstown walk from the subway.) And while I got there 25 minutes before the scheduled end date, I managed to see only the last two looks. So, here's one of 'em. Looks like I missed a pretty good party.

When & where: Monday, February 13 at 11 a.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: Some designers make me question whether they really like women or not; these are designers that tend to make backless dresses (can't wear a bra underneath), super-skintight anything (can't wear anything underneath), sheer tops (what do you wear underneath?), and so on. Carlos Miele is not one of those designers. His clothes are always sexy but never vulgar; they celebrate a woman's body–a woman with hips and breasts. (How novel!) So it was fitting that his fall collection was inspired by gauchas, which are older, country-dwelling Brazilian women. This translated into some fabulous ponchos (one made of fur) and traditional geometric motifs on a literal level, and rich gold tones and organic prints on a more figurative one. The result was one fabulous dress after another, some with flattering draping that hugged the hips, others with wide sash belts that emphasized the waist, and still more with a drape of fringe that cascaded from the shoulders downward. We have so many choices in fashion; why not choose one who celebrates women so beautifully?
Bonus points: Fashion Week hair and makeup can sometimes be a bit much, especially with designers who want to make a Statement, but Miele's models had perfectly bouncy blowouts and sun-kissed makeup. Granted, I'm a simple girl, but it was the best beauty I've seen so far this week (kudos to Rodney Cutler for Ulta and Gato for Maybelline).  
Where to buy: Carlos Miele, 408 W. 14th Street (9th Ave. & Washington St.), Meatpacking District.

British designer Jenny Packham is known foremost for her romantic wedding gowns and, more recently, for dressing Kate Middleton. And so Packham ventured back into more sweet territory after her sexy foray for fall, all the better to appeal to the Duchess of Cambridge's less outré tastes. The show begain with creamy, dreamy lime silk chiffon gowns and progressed through turquoise and coral before ending with a series of breathtaking crimson numbers while the Rolling Stone's "She's a Rainbow" played on (coincidentally, the processional for my wedding back in June). Interspersed throughout were heavily beaded frocks and even a flirty romper or two; Swarovski was a sponsor, and Packham knows what she's doing when it comes to sparkly beads. Packham makes eveningwear that's sweet and demure but just sexy enough to be interesting; one can see why Ms. Middleton is a fan.

Whereas Packham's version of sexy is romantic and proper and British, Carlos Miele's is all exposed limbs and sheer fabrics and Brazilian glamour. It's a caipirinha versus a white wine; both are equally refreshing in their own way. Opening with a series of three sheer swirl-print chiffon caftans, Miele's cocktail of choice this season was, like many other designers, bright color: vivid orange and green in solids and prints, mixed with gold and white; one can only imagine all the fabulous places Miele's customer will wear these things. Adding to the glamour was the relative simplicity of the shapes— clothes that don't overpower the wearer let her sexuality truly shine through.

When & Where: Monday, February 14 at 11 a.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center
Runway Recap: Maybe I've been reading too many fashion blogs, but I'm starting to think some designers must be getting inspired by them. Case in point: with so many hoods, capes, harem pants (and jumpsuits!), and ruching details evocative of, well, one's ladyflower, I couldn't help but think that Carlos Miele must be reading the Man Repeller. It was still sexy--Miele's shows always are--but the silhouette was much more voluminous and '80s-inspired than usual, from the aforementioned harem pants to paperbag-waist styling. Miele did, however, return to familiar territory with a series of bright gowns, many ruched, draped, and shirred to perfection.
Standout Look: This look bridged the gap between the '80s inspired looks in the first half of the show and the glam, socialite-friendly gowns of the second half. It also represents two of fall's major trends thus far: brights (cobalt blue has been especially popular) and thigh-high slits. That aside, I thought it was just plain sexy.
Bonus Points: It's always good to see a familiar face in the tents; at Carlos Miele, I sat with Adrianne, who I run into every season, and the always-dapper The Shophound, and we all traded Fashion Week war stories while waiting for the show to start.
Where to Buy: Carlos Miele boutique, 408 W. 14th Street (9th Ave. & Washington St.), Meatpacking District.

Where & When: Monday, September 13 at 11 a.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center
Runway Recap: Designers' show notes are always entertaining--sometimes they give true insight into the collection, sometimes they're totally bizarre and conceptual. Miele's stated that he was inspired by butterflies and their lack of boundaries, which, as far as show notes go, was pretty straightforward. The theme came across both literally (colorful butterfly-print dresses) and more abstractly, in expertly fitted gowns with simple lines radiating from the hip and a sequined bolero featured a pattern that echoed butterfly wings. Miele's designs often project a sexy-tough air, but this was one of his softest, prettiest collections in recent memory, and the change of pace was lovely.
Standout Look: It was exhilarating to see the many ways in which Miele interpreted the butterfly theme, but my favorite was this coral silk sheath dress, trailing a gorgeous swath of ruffle like a wing flapping in the air. And get ready to wear this color--an orangey-red--because it's been all over the runways this week.
Bonus Points: Brazilian star Bebel Gilberto performed a bossa-nova cover of Pink Floyd's "Another Brick in the Wall" live. I'm still not sure what a song about rebellion had to do with the butterfly theme (the program notes mention that Miele "does not see walls in life"), but it was a novelty nonetheless.
Where to Buy: Click here for stores.

Where & When: Monday, February 15 at 11 a.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: While black has definitely been the new black so far this season, Carlos Miele bucked the trend with a very colorful collection, including enough sun-kissed, colorblocked dresses to make you forget the mounds of snow piling up outside. Because the Carlos Miele woman is sexy and urbane, however, there were plenty of neutrals to temper the mix, including swingy cropped fur jackets and capelets, paperbag-waist skirts and pants, and forever-chic black-and-white evening gowns with architectural details. Miele knows how to make a killer party dress, and some of the strongest looks were strapless column dresses detailed with zippers, sequins, and or intricately pieced designs. Even more luxe was a series of dresses in satins so fluid, they looked liquid.
Standout Look: Layering has been a key buzzword thus far this week, and when Miele does it, he makes it look damn sexy. One could wear this fitted, long-sleeve jersey top and draped satin skirt during the day, then add the sequined cropped jacket for an instant femme fatale nighttime look.
Bonus Points: French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld was in the front row, as was model Maggie Rizer and everyone's favorite Noted Fashion Photographer, Nigel Barker. I was also digging the mellow Brazilian samba soundtrack.
Where to Buy: Carlos Miele Boutique, 408 W. 14th St. (9th Ave. & Washington St.).

New York Fashion Week Recap, part 3: My Favorites
Of the 21 shows I attended, I'm glad to say that while some were a little disappointing or just plain crazy, none were truly awful. But here are my favorites, in no particular order.

Carlos Miele
Sexy pieced chiffon dresses, great layered sheer pieces for day, and live entertainment from Seu Jorge.


Karen Walker
Great prints, a perfectly slouchy boyfriend silhouette, and a cool downtown vibe.


DKNY
A true master of American sportswear, Donna Karan gave a nod to the past while looking to the future.


Sabyasachi
Mixed prints, colors galore, and embroidered to the hilt, a collection unlike any other I'd seen.


Milly by Michelle Smith
Brightly colored, totally wearable pieces for your summer of love.

Carlos Miele Spring 2009
Where & When: Wednesday, September 10th at 3 p.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: I always love a Carlos Miele show--he always has sexy Brazilian models walking down his runway in sophisticated, urbane looks. Miele often takes inspiration from architecture and nature; this time, it was his vacation house, located in a Brazilian rain forest. Nature was represented in the tropical-leaf, abstract floral, and cloudlike prints on the wispy chiffon dresses that are a Miele signature. Even more interesting to me were the tiered, pleated gowns representing the architecture aspect; seams wrapped diagonally around the body as if slashed by a knife, and pieced panels were placed just so to accent and flatter a woman's body. This is a kind of sexiness that's always sensual, never slutty.
Standout Look: This gown had an incredibly rich royal blue color, and the overlapping chevron pattern of the panels creates an almost universally flattering shape. It's a master study of textures and contrast.
Bonus Points: In an unexpected--and entertaining--twist, live music was provided by Seu Jorge, perhaps best known as the deckhand who sings David Bowie songs in Portuguese in the Wes Anderson movie The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou.
Where to Buy: The Carlos Miele store at 408 W. 14th Street in the Meatpacking District

Carlos Miele Fall 2008
Where & When: Wednesday, February 6th at 1 p.m. in the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Designers often cite architecture as their inspiration in certain collections, to varying degrees of success. But in Carlos Miele's case, I could definitely see the swirling forms of Frank Gehry in the beautifully constructed asymmetrical dresses and industrial-but-organic prints that he sent down the runway. Miele, a Brazilian, is clearly a designer who loves the female form, and with the exception of the too-chunky sweaters, his designs showcase one's curves in a lovely, flattering manner.
Standout Look: Miele always has great chiffon dresses, and the asymmetrical construction of this one made for a stunning silhouette.
Bonus Points: After hearing about model Karlie Kloss' robot-death-stare runway walk all week, I finally got to witness it firsthand, and I can report that it's awesome--I haven't seen a strut that unique since Iekeliene Stange's sway-backed clomping (which I also love).
Where to Buy: the Carlos Miele boutique on 14th Street