Showing posts with label New York Fashion Week recap. Show all posts

New York Fashion Week in Review: Top Ten Trends for Fall

Black is the New Black
Camel and winter white both made strong showings, but on the runway, black is back for fall. Then again, did it ever go anywhere? [Leifsdottir, below]


Velvet
Designers are moving past the '80s (finally) and into the '90s. Case in point: velvet, which came out in numbers not seen since Clueless times. [Nanette Lepore, below]


Loose, Draped Dresses
For day and night, contemporary labels embraced a more relaxed, figure-forgiving draped shape. I'm all for it--pass the carbs! [Tibi, below]


Collarless Jackets
From classic and Chanel-inspired to architectural and minimalist, collars were in short supply, with designers instead favoring this clean-lined style. [Milly, below]


Fur (and Shearling Too)
PETA alert: Fur was back in full force, from cropped capelets to sleeveless shearling vests, to floor-length minks. Expect many great faux interpretations to hit the racks come fall. [Dennis Basso, below]


Pleated Skirts
There were many maxis, yes, but good-girl-gone-badass pleated skirts stole the show at Fashion Week. [DKNY, below]


Capes
Chicer, more dramatic, and potentially warmer than a boring old winter coat, 2010 may be the year that capes finally catch on. [Irina Shabayeva, below]


Piecework
Cooler than patchwork and more organic than colorblocking, designers pieced together an updated look for dresses, coats, wraps, and other fall staples. [Nicole Miller, below]


Digital Prints
It is the 21st century after all--perhaps it's time we start dressing like it. [Mara Hoffman, below]


Back Interest
Giving new meaning to the term "business in front, party in the back," designers played with peplums, watteaux, and other ways of adding volume in the back of a garment. [Chado Ralph Rucci, below]

New York Fashion Week in Review: My Favorite Shows

Of the 34 shows I attended, here are my favorites, in no particular order.

Chado Ralph Rucci
Rucci is an artist, fabric is his medium, and watching his show felt like being in a living, breathing museum. His deconstructed and reconstructed pieces elevate fashion to a new level.


Christian Cota
This up-and-coming designer drew Anna Wintour herself with his assured collection of hand-painted patterns, a lovely mix of textures, and a strong cubist inspiration.


DKNY
The jackets of all shapes, the kicky pleated skirts, the colorblocked knits...Donna Karan's spot-on sportswear was equal parts Art Deco dame and Upper East Side schoolgirl, a mix evocative of the NYC streets from which Karan draws her inspiration.


Tony Cohen
The best draped dresses of the week, and some great asymmetrical coats too. Let's hope this Dutch designer's wares are easier to find in the U.S. by fall.


Michael Angel
An exploration of textures, silhouettes, and materials proves that this Australian designer can do far more than body-conscious digital prints.


Nicole Miller
Sexy dresses, strong coats, and lots of black: Nicole Miller knows what city women really want.


Irina Shabayeva
A thoroughly enjoyable collection of fantastic coats, rocker pants, and, oh yes, fur that's sure to delight your inner Russian. (And, yes, I was just as surprised as you are.)


Nanette Lepore
A coloful interlude amidst a sea of black collections, these are the clothes that inspire women to shop.

New York Fashion Week in Review: By the Numbers

Shows I attended: 34
Shows Mina attended: 8
Shows I didn't get into due to overcrowding: 2 (Tracy Reese and Ports 1961, for which I was quite late)
Shows we didn't quite make it to: 21
Parties attended: 2
Percentage increase over parties attended last season: 200%
Tent shows: 21
Off-site shows: 21
Presentations: 11
Shows with swag: 12
Percentage increase over swag received last season: 33%
Trips to the W Hotels backstage lounge: 1
Official Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week press bags received: 0
Seasons running in which I haven't received a press bag: 3
Alcoholic beverages consumed in the tents: 0
Alcoholic beverages consumed off-site: 1
Starbucks coffee beverages consumed in the tents: 1/8 (two sips was all I could tolerate of the god-awful Viva instant coffee)
Day on which I declared I missed McCafe, the tents' previous coffee sponsor: Friday
ZonePerfect bars consumed: Too many to count
Pounds gained/lost: 0
Ailments caught: 0 (yay!)
New York Fashion Week Recap, part 4: Spring Trends
I had a conversation yesterday at my friend's birthday party about trends and how they get started. Do designers sit around and talk about it? Do they have spies planted in each other's ateliers? Are they shopping at the same trade shows and fabric mills? It's a fun thing to ponder. To get you started, here are the trends I saw on the spring runways.

Sheer
Marc Jacobs started it last spring, so now everyone's hopping on the bandwagon. Think chiffon, organza, and mesh; the most practical ways to wear it are as a sheer layer on top of a solid, or with multiple layers of sheerness to create opacity. (Photo below from Monique Lhuillier)


Cobalt blue
For spring, cobalt blue is the new yellow. And this is a good thing, because this rich, deep tone is much more universally flattering (although for the yellow lovers out there, I still saw enough of it to keep you going for another season). (Photo below from Geren Ford)


Beige
Truly tricky, beige--or nude--unlike blue, is not a color that everyone can wear. Stay away if you're blonde and/or fair-skinned, as it will wash you out. Dark-haired ladies, this one's for you. (Photo below from Tracy Reese)


One-shoulder
Back to trends that work for everyone, there's no denying the power of an asymmetrical neckline: The diagonal line cuts across your body to create a narrowing effect. This trend popped up everywhere from one-strap goddess gowns to one-sleeved tops. (Photo below from Tadashi Shoji)


Hammer pants

Call them harem pants, drop-crotch pants, Hammer pants...they were everywhere. The most flattering version I saw was at Willow. Proceed with caution. (Photo below from Willow)


Bondage
There was a definite kinkiness running through a lot of the spring collections: harness vests, cutouts, bandage dresses. It's a harder, tougher look with a hint of '80s to it, but it's perfect for the anti-girly girl. (Photo below from Harlan Bel)


Bohemian
Yep, it's still here. And I am not complaining--to me, nothing is more perfect for summer than a flowy, printed dress. And I was particularly pleased by the number of caftans I saw on the runway--a staple of the '70s fabulous, caftans have yet to catch on with women of my generation (but they just might this time). (Photo below from Milly by Michelle Smith)


The waist

I saw very few low-waisted garments on the runways (the exception being drop-waist dresses, which were still few and far between). Everything--skirts, pants, dresses--placed emphasis on the natural waist. So put all of your low-waisted clothes in storage, ladies. (Photo below from Twinkle by Wenlan)
New York Fashion Week Recap, part 3: My Favorites
Of the 21 shows I attended, I'm glad to say that while some were a little disappointing or just plain crazy, none were truly awful. But here are my favorites, in no particular order.

Carlos Miele
Sexy pieced chiffon dresses, great layered sheer pieces for day, and live entertainment from Seu Jorge.


Karen Walker
Great prints, a perfectly slouchy boyfriend silhouette, and a cool downtown vibe.


DKNY

A true master of American sportswear, Donna Karan gave a nod to the past while looking to the future.


Sabyasachi
Mixed prints, colors galore, and embroidered to the hilt, a collection unlike any other I'd seen.


Milly by Michelle Smith

Brightly colored, totally wearable pieces for your summer of love.
Coming soon: more Fashion Week recaps
My favorite shows, trends, and final thoughts--check back soon!
New York Fashion Week Recap, part 2: I <3 Swag
This is my queen-size bed, covered in Fashion Week swag. I must say, I was quite pleased by the amount of free stuff I scored this year. Onto the best and worst.

Best single piece of swag: $200 laser-hair removal gift certificate to Completely Bare (from Gen Art)
Second-best single piece of swag: A brand-new Nintendo DS and game (from Julie Haus)
Most useful swag: DHL flash drive (from Mercedes Benz press bag)
Most useless swag: The 7 mini mirrors I received. I know fashion people do a lot of coke, but, seriously, how many tiny mirrors does one need? (In my case, none.)
Best alternate-use swag: Office Max's rubber-band ball, which, as another journalist pointed out, can be used to massage sore feet
Swag I had no idea I needed: Crushing stick, for use in caipirinhas (from Carlos Miele)
Most luxe swag: Elemis skincare, wool tights, and a cute tote bag at Karen Walker
Most tempting swag: $50 Te Casan gift certificate (from Malan Breton)
Cutest tote bag: Twinkle by Wenlan
Swag request for next season: More food, please!
Best all-around swag bag: Geren Ford, whose pouch contained Smashbox makeup, Earl grey tea, perfume samples, sugar-free gum, a Vosges chocolate bar, and a pretty long silk scarf, as seen on the runway.
New York Fashion Week Recap, part 1: By the Numbers
Shows attended: 21
Parties attended: 0
Parties to which I was invited: 12
Shows I didn't get into due to overcrowding: 2
Shows I was invited to but missed: 15
Shows in the tents: 14
Off-site shows: 7
Shows at Bumble + Bumble: 0 (boo hoo!)
Swag bags received: 11
Pairs of custom Havianias received: 0
Ridiculously bitchy PR girls encountered: 2
Days I wore high heels: 4
Blistered toes: 3
Asprin consumed: 50 (approximately)
LU biscuits consumed: 800 (approximately)
Alcoholic beverages consumed in the tent: 2
Iced coffees from Le Pan Quotidien consumed: 6
Amount spent on extravagant pick-me-up sushi dinner Tuesday at BondST: $150
Meals consumed at Subway: 4
Average hours of sleep per night: 5.5
Pounds gained: 1.5 (see LU biscuits, above)
New ailments: 0 (yay!)