Cheryl Shops

New York Fashion Week Recap, part 1: By the Numbers
Shows attended: 21
Parties attended: 0
Parties to which I was invited: 12
Shows I didn't get into due to overcrowding: 2
Shows I was invited to but missed: 15
Shows in the tents: 14
Off-site shows: 7
Shows at Bumble + Bumble: 0 (boo hoo!)
Swag bags received: 11
Pairs of custom Havianias received: 0
Ridiculously bitchy PR girls encountered: 2
Days I wore high heels: 4
Blistered toes: 3
Asprin consumed: 50 (approximately)
LU biscuits consumed: 800 (approximately)
Alcoholic beverages consumed in the tent: 2
Iced coffees from Le Pan Quotidien consumed: 6
Amount spent on extravagant pick-me-up sushi dinner Tuesday at BondST: $150
Meals consumed at Subway: 4
Average hours of sleep per night: 5.5
Pounds gained: 1.5 (see LU biscuits, above)
New ailments: 0 (yay!)

Sabyasachi Spring 2009
Where & When: Friday, September 12th at 1 p.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Sabyasachi Mukherjee is a big star in his native India, and while he might be under the radar in the U.S. for now, expect that to change soon. His whirlwind collection mixed multiple patterns, beautiful embroidery, and leather scalloped to look like fish scales--sometimes all in one look--with a distinct arts-and-crafts influence, but styled with high buns and heavy glasses, for an intellectual-librarian bent. At first the darker colors and heavier fabrics seemed too autumn-like, but it turns out that India's fall takes place during our spring (thanks, person in front of me whom I overheard saying that). With all the talk about designers expanding their businesses to India, it's nice to see what India can offer us (besides, you know, outsourced customer service representatives and computer programmers).
Standout Look: It's hard to see from the photo, but toward the hem of this dress, round mirrored pailettes and beads begin to accent the circular pattern. I also loved the whimsical outer shoulder pads. It was truly stunning and a definite statement-maker.
Bonus Points: People's Revolution handles Sabyasachi's PR, so whilst waiting for the show to start, I got to see everyone's favorite "power bitch" Kelly Cutrone pace the runway, telling people to move their bags and ordering her employees around. I now totally have a girl crush on her.
Where to Buy: Good question; try contacting People's Revolution.

Tadashi Shoji Spring 2009
Where & When: Friday, September 12th at noon, the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: This was a a spring collection, but it appears designer Tadashi Shoji was inspired by cracked ice, as refracted patterns and an icy-cool palette of white and dove gray dominated his show. Shoji played with sheer layers of silk organza, origami-like pleating, and pretty cascades of ruffles; metallic fringed numbers suggested icicles. But this wasn't merely all artiness; trend-right sporty anoraks, paperbag waists, and a series of one-shouldered looks kept the collection current.
Standout Look: I love the play of textures here--the sheer anorak and the metallic fringed skirt--and pairing with a simple white tank top keeps the look young and fresh.
Bonus Points: The cracked-ice pattern seen throughout the collection was projected onto the ceiling and walls of the tent as we walked in, immediately setting the tone for the beautiful designs to follow.
Where to Buy: Saks, Bloomindale's, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom

Reem Acra Spring 2009
Where & When: Thursday, September 11th at 3 p.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: There has been much speculation this week about how designers would address the mediocre state of the U.S. economy--whether they'd restrain themselves with more conservative, less showy pieces or go all out with investment-worthy statement-makers. Reem Acra definitely went for the latter with her collection today, a series of incredibly bright and embellished dresses and separates, almost to the point that she seemed to be trolling for Middle-East clients, who tend toward the more outré. Shades of nude were interspersed throughout, offering a respite from all the bold shocks of color. From the conservative cut of most garments, I'd venture that Acra appeals to an older customer; but if it's Russia she's after, a closer fit is in order.
Standout Look: Awkward fit aside, this mini-caftan was one of the more calm looks to come down the runway, but the embroidery along the neckline still had that elegant detail that Reem Acra is known for.
Bonus Points: Mr. and Ms. Jay from America's Next Top Model, both tall drinks of water, were in the front row, happily granting interviews until the plastic came up.
Where to Buy: Reem Acra boutique, 14 E. 60th St.

Willow Spring 2009
Where & When: Thursday, September 11th at 1:30 p.m., the Altman Building
Runway Recap: There are inspirations that pop up again and again for designers; they tend to be, in no particular order, Edie Sedgwick, Talitha Getty, the Swans (any of the 1960s NYC socialites à la Truman Capote novels), and the Ballets Russes. For spring, Australian designer Kit Willow was inspired by the last of those, but this is not a complaint--she showed out a small but focused collection of loose, light chiffon pieces with Art Deco beading and a color palette of orange, black, white, and gray. Willow experimented with sheer fabrics, draped in a way to flatter a range of body types and layered to create an artsy, rich-bohemian vibe.
Standout Look: I'm cheating by picking two looks here, but my camera was about to die, so I couldn't take any individual photos. The dress at the left had a gorgeous, goddess-like draped look, with intricate gold beading at the top, making it look fresh and innovative. The look on the right is seriously the first pair of flattering hammer pants I've seen all week--and I have seen a lot of hammer pants. Love the slouchy silhouette, and the long beaded scarf too.
Bonus Points: This was a presentation, ensuring I was in and out in less than half an hour, a wonderful alternative to the hour-plus commitment required of the more traditional "shows".
Where to Buy: Elizabeth Charles

Malan Breton Spring 2009
When & Where: Thursday, September 11th at 9 a.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: I know I say this every season, but I am still kind of shocked that, of all the talented Project Runway alumni, Malan Breton is the only one still (still!) showing in Bryant Park. There is a pattern to a Malan Breton show: He was inspired by a classic movie (in this case, Star, starring Julie Andrews); he sends well-coiffed, made-up models down the runway to torch songs in somewhat extravagant but well-constructed garments; he does a full lap down the runway himself, with a model on each arm. It's a formula, yes, but one that he keeps refining and perfecting each season; in other words, Malan does what he does best, and he continues to do it even better as each season passes.
Standout Look: This is a strapless lace wide-leg jumpsuit. (Say that ten times fast.) The fact that Malan can, in the immortal words of Tim Gunn, make it work this well is a testament to his skill.
Bonus Points: No Silver Fox spotting, but The Real Housewives of New York was representing for Bravo with Alex and Simon Van Kempen in the front row. Also from the world of reality: Sara from Cycle 6 of America's Next Top Model!
Where to Buy: Email Malan.

Milly by Michelle Smith Spring 2009
Where & When: Wednesday, September 10th at 6 p.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: The contemporary Milly line generally has a retro '50s vibe, but for spring, designer Michelle Smith took a trip to 1970s Marrakesh for a fun collection of hippie-chic clothes in bright colors. Vivid psychedelic prints and embellished trim like tassels and sequins accented long caftans and groovy minidresses; crocheted lace decorated separates; and everything was accessorized with either knit skullcaps, macramé belts, or tasseled necklaces. Every once in awhile, a more typical Milly piece like a boxy cropped jacket or bow-neck blouse popped up; however, these did not detract from the easygoing, bohemian vibe.
Standout Look: This dress was one of the first few looks down the runway, and I immediately knew it was going to be my favorite. It has a versatile look--you can wear it whether you're a true bohemian chick or a girly-girl--and it's the perfect kind of summer sundress that you start looking for at the beginning of the season and yet never find. Until now, that is.
Bonus Points: The audience (myself included) was rocking out to the classic-rock music, which included the Rolling Stones' "She's a Rainbow" and George Harrison's "My Sweet Lord."
Where to Buy: Saks, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale's, Nordstrom

Famous fashion people I saw exiting the 3.1 Phillip Lim show today
In no particular order:

Anna Wintour
Rachel Zoe
Leigh Lezark
Kelly Bensimon
Nina Garcia
Grace Coddington
Hamish Bowles
Virginia Smith
Kate Lanphear
Anne Slowey
Suzy Menkes
Simon Doonan
Lynn Yaeger

According to the Fug Girls, Juliette Lewis, Leighton Meester, Joy Bryant, Emmy Rossum, and Roisin Murphy (!) were all there too. Guess winning a CFDA award has it benefits, no?

Carlos Miele Spring 2009
Where & When: Wednesday, September 10th at 3 p.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: I always love a Carlos Miele show--he always has sexy Brazilian models walking down his runway in sophisticated, urbane looks. Miele often takes inspiration from architecture and nature; this time, it was his vacation house, located in a Brazilian rain forest. Nature was represented in the tropical-leaf, abstract floral, and cloudlike prints on the wispy chiffon dresses that are a Miele signature. Even more interesting to me were the tiered, pleated gowns representing the architecture aspect; seams wrapped diagonally around the body as if slashed by a knife, and pieced panels were placed just so to accent and flatter a woman's body. This is a kind of sexiness that's always sensual, never slutty.
Standout Look: This gown had an incredibly rich royal blue color, and the overlapping chevron pattern of the panels creates an almost universally flattering shape. It's a master study of textures and contrast.
Bonus Points: In an unexpected--and entertaining--twist, live music was provided by Seu Jorge, perhaps best known as the deckhand who sings David Bowie songs in Portuguese in the Wes Anderson movie The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou.
Where to Buy: The Carlos Miele store at 408 W. 14th Street in the Meatpacking District

Cho Cheng Spring 2009
When & Where: Wednesday, September 10th at 9 a.m., Astor Hall, New York Public Library
Runway Recap: The graceful marble hallways provided an elegant backdrop for Chinese designer Cho Cheng's impeccably tailored suits and princess-like ballgowns. While the skirts will obviously need to be lengthened to suit the society types sitting in the front row, this shouldn't be a problem--Cho is trained in couture techniques, and it shows. With so many suits, however, the show got to be a bit repetitive; I would've preferred a bit more variety, especially with only 24 looks.
Standout Look: This was my favorite suit, and the shape of the jacket is certainly one you don't see every day. It was gorgeously made--and with my front-row seat (that's right, my front row seat), I was certainly close enough to inspect the sewing.
Bonus Points: Cho either has friends in high places or already has a devoted following--model Maggie Rizer opened the show, and the iconic Carmen Dell'Orefice closed it (and received applause as she walked the runway). Also, for the reality TV fans in the house, I sat directly across from Simon Van Kempen and spotted Countess de Lesseps, both from The Real Housewives of New York.
Where to Buy: It appears Cho will run his business as a couture house; see his website for details.

Gottex Spring 2009
Where & When: Monday, September 8th at 8 p.m., the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Whenever I go to a fashion show, I like to think, "Who buys this stuff?" Is the client a career woman? A lady who lunches? A downtown party girl? But sitting through the Gottex show, I was at a loss. The collection was inspired by the Mediterranean, and the way in which the swimsuits were styled would lead me to believe that they're targeting the St. Tropez yacht crowd, but, as anyone who's been to a European beach can tell you, bikini tops are beside the point there, much less one-piece suits. So, again, who buys this stuff? The first series of looks were black with metallic gold anchor accents, accessorized with ridiculously oversized hats. Then came graphic prints, followed by bright neon suits, and then some not-so-bad Asian-inspired prints. Then came a series that were adorned with what I can only call chopsticks; all of a sudden, I had a craving for sushi. At the end were what I suppose were bridal swimsuits, since they were all white; one involved a belted bikini bottom with a hooded, draped top. That's right--a hooded bikini. I have a feeling that one is not going to make it to the stores in quite the same way; as for the others, well, there must be some yacht-hopping ladies out there who actually wear this stuff. Right?
Standout Look: This bandeau bikini was the the youngest and, to me, the most wearable look that came down the runway. And, let's face it--bikinis should be the provenance of the young.
Bonus Points: I had a seat that was close enough to the runway to see that 110-pound models have thighs that jiggle when they walk. Models--they're just like us!
Where to buy: Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Everything but Water

Sergio Davila Spring 2009
Where & When: Monday, September 8th at 1 p.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Peruvian native Sergio Davila has been creating menswear for several years now, but this season marks the debut of his womenswear line. Alas, only five of the 31 looks were for the ladies, but for my few and far between male readers, the collection is definitely worth checking out. I'm used to seeing menswear shows where totally weird and unmanly things like hot pink man-skirts come down the runway, but nearly every look here was dapper and completely wearable, with an almost nautical bent. For the ladies, it was a knit jumpsuit and dresses, with spiderwebby accents. Let's hope next season that the women's portion of the show is as fleshed out as the men's.
Standout Look: I am all for knitwear for evening, and this dress had a sexy but laid-back look, with kind of rock-and-roll chain fringe at the neckline. It's the sort of slinky thing you want to wear to a summer roof party.
Bonus Points: After staring at gorgeous 110-lb. women all day long, sometimes a change is good. Thankfully, my second-row seat allowed me to ogle all the male models at very close range.
Where to Buy: Email for info.

Monique Lhuillier Spring 2009
Where & When: Tuesday, September 9th at 11 a.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Monique Lhuillier owns the distinction of having designed Britney Spears' wedding dress, but she, along with Vera Wang, are arguably two of the most famous bridal designers around. Like Wang, Lhuillier also can crank out a mean red carpet dress. But unlike Wang, who seems hell-bent on proving that she doesn't just do pretty, Lhuillier seems perfectly content--and, in fact, excels--at exploring new and unusual ways to make women appear, well, pretty. This collection was inspired by a tropical-island vacation, and while that might conjure visions of tacky-bright colors and caftans, Lhuillier explored the theme in beautifully abstract ways, like wheat-stalk and wicker prints; denim for night, adorned with Aztec embroidery; and organza embroidered to look like lace. Also strong were gowns with layers of sheer tulle and chiffon, creating volume without bulk. Sure, there was an occasional shot of azure blue, but mixed in with the otherwise soft color palette, it looked as fresh as a dip in the ocean. Any of the front-row starlets present--Malin Ackerman, Perrey Reeves, Elizabeth Banks, and Zoe Saldana--would be lucky to wear one of Lhuillier's gowns on the red carpet.
Standout Look: This is one of the aforementioned wicker prints (doesn't look like wicker, does it?), with Aztec embroidery at the neckline--two completely unexpected elements that meet in a classical goddess silhouette to create an absolutely beautiful gown.
Bonus Points: I loved the wicker runway. Also, thanks to the cameraman who, in spite of hovering mere inches above my head for most of the show, managed not to hit my head with his scary big camera on a mechanical arm.
Where to Buy: Saks, Bergdorf Goodman

Dear Ports 1961...
Please book a bigger venue for your show. Last season I was one of about 10 standing people who made it in; this time no standing invitees made it. Watching your kooky shows on a TV screen doesn't quite have the same effect. kthanxbye.

And, coming tomorrow: reviews of Sergio Davila, Gottex, and whatever shows I make it to tomorrow (I am dragging serious ass--time for a good night's sleep). Four days down, four days to go!

Twinkle by Wenlan Spring 2009
Where & When: Monday, September 8th at 9 a.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: In the notes for her spring collection, Twinkle designer Wenlan Chia had me at "Jean Seberg" (seriously, if you've never seen it, add Breathless to your Netflix queue now). Instead of the obvious reference to the famed French actress--striped tees, capri pants--Wenlan created a tightly focused collection of high-waisted skirts, sexy camisoles, and printed dresses. I was expecting more knits (Chia is well known in the knitting community), and I could've done without the Hammer pants, but the show had a strong early-1960s Paris vibe, and anything Parisian is good in my book.
Standout Look: Some of my favorite looks in the show featured Wenlan's "etoile" print, including this asymmetrical dress (again, trend alert!), and I have a feeling it was her favorite print as well—-it decorated all of the reversible tote bags the audience received as gifts.
Bonus Points: Nine a.m. shows are always a hard sell, so I wasn't expecting any celebrities. But, right across from me sat...the kid who plays America Ferrera's nephew on Ugly Betty, by far my most random celebrity sighting of the week!
Where to Buy: shopbop.com, Nordstrom, and more locations here.

Harlan Bel Spring 2009
Where & When: Sunday, September 7th at 6 p.m., the Altman Building
Runway Recap: While there will always be a place in the world for young female designers who create pretty, flirty frocks, hopefully the ones who make more structured, tougher looks stick around as well. Harlan Bel, designed by Brandy Lunsford, clearly falls into the latter category. Sticking to a mostly black-and-white palette, the structured, geometric looks featured cool cutouts, harness vests, and interesting pleats. Think Helmut Lang, but even further downtown.
Standout Look: My apologies for the blurriness of this photo, but these pants were really amazing, with a super-flattering flared leg and a cool cutout detail in front. The top takes the hard work out of layering--it's all one piece.
Bonus Points: One of my favorite models, the redhead Cintia Dicker, opened the show. Also, let me just say how much I adore the people at MAO PR. If only all fashion publicists were so lovely.
Where to Buy: Nikki Laura, at 4 Prince Street, and online at buydefinition.com.

Terexov Spring 2009
Where & When: Sunday, September 7th at 2 p.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Word on the street is that the buyers are looking to stock their stores with vibrant color next spring; I hope they all went to Alexander Terekhov's show, as he sent out dress after dress in green, pink, purple, yellow, and sometimes prints combining all of the above. Some looks were a bit too fussy (and reminded me of the recently auffed Keith from Project Runway!), like the fringed, Muppet-like skirts and puffy, ruffled vests, but the flowing, disco-goddess caftan gowns toward the end more than made up for it.
Standout Look: Asymmetrical looks are definitely an emerging trend for spring, and I thought this lemon-yellow dress was a graceful way to interpret it.
Bonus Points: In a world where many designers send out models to, say, the sound of drilling, or anonymous techno beats, Terexov had Goldfrapp and Muse. Thank you.
Where to Buy: Terexov has two stores in Moscow, but as for the U.S., you can try your luck on his website.

Tracy Reese Spring 2009
Where & When: Sunday, September 7th at noon, the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: When it comes to pretty, no one does it better than Tracy Reese. She set the tone with delicate strands of lights dangling from the ceiling and dreamy music (Keren Ann, Coldplay), then started her garden party with rosettes, winding vine-like embroidery, and impressionistic floral prints that would bring a tear to Monet's eye. Less obvious--but equally beautiful--interpretations of the theme included tulip skirts with draped, petal-like panels and peplum jackets that flared over the hips like blossoms. It all made me wish that we could skip fall and winter and just go straight to spring. The audience agreed--they gave Reese a standing ovation.
Standout Look: The structured shape of this bateau-neck sleeveless dress perfectly balances the romantic, pointillist print. Can you think of a more perfect frock for a summer wedding?
Bonus Points: With a number of Asian and black models, this was one of the most diverse runways I've seen. Also, Brandy was in the front row!
Where to Buy: The Tracy Reese store at 641 Hudson in the West Village, or go here to find a store near you.

DKNY Spring 2009
Where & When: Sunday, September 7th at 11 a.m., the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: First of all, let me say that I have no idea how I got invited to this show, but I'm glad I did, because it's been one of my favorites so far. In celebration of DKNY's 20th anniversary, Donna Karan sent out a fresh, youthful collection of boldly colored dresses that both gave a nod to the line's iconic pieces--the jumpsuit, the boyfriend jacket, the anorak--and looked forward to the future with renewed energy. Dresses ranged from bloused with a tube skirt to bustier-type tops with tulip skirts, and all were short and in bright, almost day-glo colors. It was all very hopeful--and god knows this country could use a little hope at the moment.
Standout Look: Of all the great dresses that came down the runway, this one was my favorite. Leave it to Donna Karan to make acid-bright colors totally wearable, in a super-flattering silhouette.
Bonus Points: Donna Karan knows how to put on a show. The in-house PR girls used super high-tech handheld scanners on everyone's invitations; Nicole Richie, Christina Ricci, and Winona Ryder, plus '90s DKNY faces (and exes) Esther Canadas and Mark Vanderloo were in the front row; the show opened with a short film; all the big-name models--Stam, Coco Rocha, Jordan Dunn, Sasha P.--walked; during the finale, Karan was bombarded by the ultimate in free publicity, fur protesters; and those lucky enough to have a seat (I was not one of them) received a special bottle of DKNY Moet champagne.
Where to Buy: The DKNY store at 60th and Madison, and at a department store near you.

Karen Walker Spring 2009
Where & When: Saturday, September 6th at 3 p.m., the Altman Building
Runway Recap: Fashionistas' spirits—and Louboutins—were dampened by the tropical storm happening outside, but New Zealand designer Karen Walker's awesome show made me forget it was even raining. Slouchy, borrowed-from-your-boyfriend shirts and trousers opened the show, but the tissue-thin T-shirts, lacy dresses, and tulip skirts will work better on non-model bodies.
Standout Look: While there were many great prints in the show, my favorite were the incredibly wearable, not-at-all tacky series of abstract leopard patterns. Can't you picture an Olsen twin wearing this loose jacket, tissue tee, and well-cut pencil skirt?
Bonus Points: This show drew a serious downtown fashion crowd--I spotted Mr. Mickey from Paper, Lynn Yaeger from the Village Voice, and Elle's Kate Lamphear, who seemed a bit put off by the fact that she had to wait in line to check in with the rest of us hoi polloi.
Where to Buy: Barneys, Elizabeth Charles, Bird, and many other stores listed at her website.