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Jill Stuart
Remember the other day when I mentioned how Mina got invited to some awesome shows? Count Jill Stuart among them. For fall, Stuart showed a lot of party dresses, many of them in interesting textures, and many of them in black—by the way, for fall 2013, black is the new black. Really.

 And while many designers have gone back to black for fall, Son Jung Wan opted for anything but, starting with pale nude and cream, dabbling in camel and beige, and finishing in rich shades of teal, burgundy, and violet. As usual, she used a luxurious range of materials, from cozy-looking wool bouclé to fur, including a deliciously extravagant top made out of mink, but her silhouette has become closer to the body and her pieces finished with beautiful raw-edged seams or just enough fur trim. None of these looks would be out of place on the Upper East Side; if only one could buy them in the U.S...

On the weekends, Fashion Week starts to get a bit chaotic, both in terms of the schedule and the crowds. Thus, Mina and I ended up dividing and conquering, although we still didn't quite make it to everything. (We did, however, both make it to the Birchbox suite, which was probably the highlight of our day.) Here's what we did see.


Ruffan
The Ruffian boys must be gluttons for punishment, because for some reason they keep taking the 9 a.m. Saturday slot, which, as much as I love the line, is just too damn early to get me out of bed. Mina, however, lives in Manhattan and has a much shorter commute than I do, so she made it, god bless her. Her text-message review: "It was good!" Reportedly, the show was inspired by Williamsburg. Let's take a look, shall we?




Son Jung Wan
Son Jung Wan's show started off promisingly with a bright canary-yellow pleated chiffon number, followed by a series of sherbet-colored flowing tops and peplum dresses that were cheery and summery. It's clear Wan is a skilled technician who's eager to showcase her handiwork, however as the show went on, the looks became more and more overwrought, with appliqués that tended to overpower even the six-foot-tall models. A little editing would have done a world of good. 

 
Mara Hoffman
There were no shamans or mystics at Mara Hoffman's show this season; judging by words like "aloha" and "surf" in the run of show and the ukelele players who began the affair, she went straight to Hawaii, and it suited her signature prints quite well. The colors were bright, the patterns kaleidoscopic, and the silhouettes were a bit looser than normal, the better to hide a belly full of pina coladas. Well, except for a handful of bra tops, an emerging trend this season. Speaking of bra tops, Li'l Kim was in the audience, which was awesome, and, completely unrelated to bra tops, Hoffman's soundtrack included The Pixies' "Wave of Mutilation," which was even awesomer. I sang along, and the twentysomething blogger sitting next to me looked at me like I was nuts. That was not so awesome.


Rafael Cennamo
There are some total randoms who show at Fashion Week, and sometimes I go because they're showing in the right place at the right time and, hey, I'm curious. I'll admit, Rafael Cennamo is a designer I knew very little about before this, and after seeing his spring collection, I now feel like an a-hole, because holy Ferocia Coutura, his eveningwear is amazing. I'm talking straight-up couture quality, with the most ornate beadwork this side of Lesage and soutache that brought tears to my eyes. Ok, Rafael, you have my attention now. 

 



Christian Siriano
Christian Siriano's show always involves a schelpp out to the far reaches of West Chelsea, then an epically long check-in line followed by a long wait outside in either blistering heat (September) or freezing cold (February). There are few designers for whom I'd put up with this, but Siriano's show is always worth the wait, and his spring 2013 collection was his most refined one yet. He was inspired by the ballet, which is pretty much a surefire hit in my book, but while you might expect him to go all out with crazy tulle and feathers and satin, Siriano was incredibly restrained, with fluid day looks in dreamy pastels, refined metallics, and even subtle lace and brocade. The evening looks were breathtaking, with pearl-encrusted bodices, one (okay, one signature Siriano extravaganza) layered tulle confection, and, to finish the show, three pitch-perfect tulle party dresses that were pretty much the dream of every girl who's ever been to the ballet. And speaking of dreamy, I somehow ended up in the second row, which explains the quality of my photos here (yes, I took them myself!), but was even more exciting because for once, I could see the shoes. Payless fans, look for similar styles in stores next February. 


Alexandre Herchcovitch
Due to scheduing conflicts, Mina agreed to attend Brazilian avant-garde designer Alexandre Herchcovitch's show in my place, which normally is not a big deal, except the PR firm had my photo on record (high tech!) and, well, Mina and I look nothing alike, to put it mildly. Nevertheless, she got in—this is our one show this season at "cool kids" venue Made @ Milk—and this was our conversation about the show:
Mina: This collection looked like clown couture.
Me: Is that good or bad?!
Mina: Judge for yourself.

Monique Lhuiller
Two seasons ago, I got to bring a plus-one. Last season, I started in the third row and got pulled into the first, which was beyond awesome This season, Monique Lhuillier put me in the sixth row, which explains the rather unfortunate state of these photos. How far the mighty have fallen, right? Anyway, even if I had to watch Lhuillier crammed back in the standing section, I would. Her sinspiration this season was the ocean water and sea life within, with an emphasis on mermaids, and while the interpretation wasn't as literal as you'd expect in terms of color, it was beautiful nonetheless, with some of the dreamiest prints I've seen. Many of the looks had peplum-like panels at the hips, which created a womanly effect and evoked the lower half of a mermaid (yes, there were a good number of fishtail hems too). By the time the last few looks came down the runway—glittering, jewel-encrusted tulle gowns—I was ready to ditch life on land. After all, didn't Sebastian the crab say that life is better under the sea? Based on this show, I'd tend to agree. 

When & where: Saturday, February 11 at 4 p.m., Eyebeam Atelier

Runway recap: After Thursday's article in the Times on how Siriano is trying to win over fashion critics (in spite of having a so far very successful business), I was expecting a toned-down affair. And I was right. One definitely felt Siriano's restraint (or perhaps that of his stylist, Danielle Nachmani), in that much of the collection consisted of trim, polished day looks and evening dresses that, by Siriano's standards, felt almost minimal. Which is not to say that the collection wasn't gorgeous. It was, and as in the past, the fabrics looked rich, with faux croc, faux pony, jacquard, and brocade. He was inspired by the 1930s film The Vampire Bat, and even with such a dramatic-Goth starting point, Siriano didn't let the theme run away with the collection, instead interpreting it in everything from recurring wing-like flounce overlays to "bat vein" patterns. I'm sure it will all sell well, but let's hope there are customers out there who will shell out for the signature showstopping gowns at the end—aside from being audience favorites, they're what made us all fall in love with Siriano in the first place.

Bonus points: An eclectic front row if there ever was one (and proof of Siriano's widespread appeal), it featured Gabourey Sidibe, Mena Suvari, The Vampire Diaries' Nina Dobrev, and Brad Goreski.

Where to buy: Visit ChristianSiriano.com for stockists.

What can I say about Christian Siriano that hasn't been said already? Perhaps the most loved Project Runway contestant ever, he's arguably the most successful as well, smartly leveraging a shoe line with Payless (and several other strategic partnerships) to fund his ready-to-wear line. He might be one of the most talented contestants as well; there's no question as to his design skill, especially after seeing his show on Saturday. For spring, Siriano explored the neutral/acid brights motif that's already a big trend for the season, and watching him play with different proportions was a delight: Sometimes a beige day dress with a chartreuse belt, then a dramatic pair of crepe palazzo pants in the same shade, and finally, as if he couldn't hold it back any longer, a dramatic tulle trumpet gown in an overwhelming burst of color. Sometimes, however, a little restraint could have been in order—Siriano went a bit overboard with the pleating on a few organza numbers, and several of the show-closing ballgowns overwhelmed the models (and if a gown swallows a six-foot woman, think of how ridiculous it will look on an average-size one). Still, there's a reason he's carried in high-end boutiques like 4510 and Neapolitan, and it's not the novelty factor—Siriano simply makes beautiful, ladylike clothes.

Where & When: Thursday, February 10 at 7 p.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center
Runway Recap: Name Christian Siriano and I can almost guarantee the first thing that comes to mind for most people is that gorgeous asymmetrical couture gown he designed with Chris March during Project Runway. It does for me, and while there's no question Siriano can design major red carpet gowns, well, he needs to pay the bills sooner or later. His Payless shoe line definitely helps with that, but what he really needs to do is sell clothes. He is--I spotted execs from Saks and Neiman Marcus in the audience--and for fall, he really stepped it up with retail-friendly looks. In other words, a lot of black. It was a bit more subdued than Siriano's usual Ferocia Coutura extravaganzas, but his workmanship is clearly skilled--everything looked expensive, particularly a leather jacket with Mongolian lamb sleeves and a leather-trimmed shawl-collar jacket. He lightened up toward the end with a series of gowns in moss green and mauve; this is where the black orchid theme of the collection really came to fruition.
Standout Look: Due to Siriano's penchant for dramatic lighting, more than half of my photos are somewhat hard to see. So, instead, here's one of my favorite gowns: strapless with a solid pleated bodice and a beautifully printed skirt that floated around the model's body like a cloud.
Bonus Points: My first celeb sightings of Fashion Week, Siriano's front row included the somewhat random and yet awesome collection of Mena Suvari, Gabrielle Union (Bring It On!), and Alexa Chung, my girl-crush du jour.
Where to Buy: Find store locations here.

Where & When: Friday, February 12 at 3 p.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Part of what makes Christian Siriano so appealing as a designer is his exuberance; he's all catch phrases and witticisms, yes, but he's also extremely talented--perhaps the most worthy designer ever to win Project Runway. (After all, he's the only former contestant still showing in the tents.) And while Siriano has approached growing his brand in a smart way--collaborations with Starbucks, Victoria's Secret Beauty, and of course Payless generate extra cash to fund his ready-to-wear business--I can't help but wonder if his backers laid down the law and told him to start showing more sellable clothing. You could almost sense Siriano's restraint in the lovely, ladylike suits and sheath dresses that opened the show. Of course, you can only contain a designer's spirit for so long, and thus when a series of nicely ruffled cocktail dresses gave way to showstopping ballgowns, the Christian we all know and love was back, exhaling a sigh of relief. While he clearly excels at eveningwear, it's the daytime looks that pay the bills; let's hope he can find a way to, as Tim Gunn might say, "make it work."
Standout Look: Sesilee Lopez, who's had a relationship with Siriano from the start of Project Runway and who's now a top model, opened and closed the show. This gorgeously ruffled fuchsia gown drew an enthusiastic response from the crowd, and Sesilee worked it to perfection.
Bonus Points: The front row was stocked with a random but noteworthy assortment of celebs: Mena Suvari, Kat Deluna, Caridee English (of ANTM fame), real model Veronica Webb, Leigh Lezark, and Amber Rose.
Where to Buy: Click here for store locations.

If you ask me, one of the most underrated masstige collaborations is Pierre Hardy's Design Edition shoes for the Gap. I have a pair from nearly every collection he's done, and not only are they all incredibly comfortable, but people routinely stop me on the street to ask where I got them. And since Hardy's namesake collection (as well as his shoes for Balenciaga) remains way out of my price range, I am happy to partake. Nitrolicious has photos of his upcoming summer line, which hits select Gap stores May 4th. The nude cork wedges are my favorite pair, but, knowing me, I'll probably buy all three--even so, three pairs of the Gap shoes are still way under what a single pair of regular Pierre Hardy sandals would cost. And, in case you're still interested, Hardy's suede buckle boots have finally hit Gap.com (two months after they arrived in select stores).

Speaking of shoes, have you ever found yourself drooling over Christian Siriano's runway shoes, only to find that his Payless collections contain far more restrained, conservative (and maybe a little disappointing) versions? According to SheFinds, his spring 2010 collection boasts straight-from-the-runway looks, which will retail for $79.99 (a king's ransom at Payless!) and arrive in stores mid-March. I have no idea how I'm going to walk in any of these but, they're so ferosh, for $80, I'll try.

Finally, if Sonia Rykiel's lingerie line for H&M last month didn't whet your appetite for coquettish French clothing, you'll be happy to hear that her full line of knitwear hits stores on February 20th, and The Cut has a video preview of the collection. It's striped, rhinestone-studded, colorful, and, overall, very Sonia Rykiel.