Cheryl Shops

Pamella Roland
I generally love presentations, because you can get in and out in under 20 minutes (usually), however, they tend to work better for less showy clothing. I really wished that Pamella Roland, who makes age-appropriate sportswear and lovely red-carpet gowns, had elected to show on the runway instead, because I felt that her elegant clothes weren't getting the attention they deserved. That's because Roland throws quite a good party--I ran into one of my favorite fellow bloggers, The Shophound, and spotted Hilary Swank (!), Lori Loughlin, Denise Richards, and Ramona Singer (from Real Housewives) in the crowd. And not only did this packed soiree have alcohol, but it had hors d'oeuvres too (if you go to enough fashion events, you realize how rare an occurrence food is). But why was I here? Oh yes, the clothes. They were inspired by Roland's trip to the Greek Isles, and my favorite section featured gowns in rich blues evocative of the Aegean Sea (and, helpfully, the program notes featured travel tips). However, next time I'd recommend not throwing a bash so good that it upstages the clothes.

Loris Diran
Loris Diran, on the other hand, makes clothes that are perfectly suited to a presentation, and watching his sun-faded, pastel spring collection slowly spin around on a huge turntable was the perfect way to experience it. A softer take on the neutral trend that was everywhere this season, Diran's collection was wearable and feminine yet directional too.

Gottex
There has always been a certain amount of spectacle involved in Gottex's fashion shows; like the Victoria's Secret "fashion show," wearability is not the point. However, while VS gets top-notch talent (okay, Gottex had Karolina Kurkova and Crystal Renn, who, by the way, is maybe a size 8) and a prime-time TV special, Gottex just seems incredibly out of touch with reality. Swimsuits sported weird peplums, super-high-cut legs, or ostentatious gemstones; looks were styled with exaggerated sun visors and campy chiffon capes. Not to mention, if you actually wore any of these swimsuits, you'd end up with comically patterned tan lines. If none of these suits was actually intended to be worn, and since the audience seemed to be filled with non-industry folk, like the investment bankers sitting behind me, I'm not quite sure what the point was.

Adrienne Vittadini
When I was younger, I had a pair of magenta cabbage-rose-print denim shorts by Adrienne Vittadini, and I wore the hell out of them. (Hey, it was the '80s.) The new design director, Kristiina Salminen, has clearly been plumbing the archives for ideas, because a series of floral-print looks totally took me back to 1988. The collection seemed geared toward the career gal, with lots of office-friendly shirtdresses and reliable cardigans. Judging by the number of executives in the space, expect this line to hit a mid-tier department store near you soon.

Rebecca Moses
Also a purveyor of wearable fashion, Rebecca Moses ran a coquettish thread through her spring collection, with bows here, leopard print there, and wearable looks throughout. Hemlines hit everywhere from above the knee to floor length, but sweet styling like mixed prints and exaggerated jewelry kept the collection youthful. I especially liked the daytime satin pieces and the cropped pegged pants. Everything was just on the flirty side of feminine, which, if you ask me, is where most girls want to be.

Where & When: Monday, September 14th at 7 p.m., the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: In Gottex's program notes, they state the line is taking "a modern direction without forsaking its DNA." Gone are the crazy accessories like turbans and swaths of chiffon--a step in the right direction--but Gottex's swimsuits still sport an exotic, somewhat over-the-top look, rendering them unsuitable (pun intended) for anything but lounging around the pool or yacht and looking fabulous. And, for the most part, the suits were fabulous, particularly a series of cobalt blue bohemian looks and the sleek, sequined black styles at the end. Two notes of caution, however: the '80s, high-cut styles and gathered, diaper-like bikini bottoms need to be banished--they're neither flattering nor modern.
Standout Look: There is nothing at all practical about a white swimsuit--especially a high-necked, short-sleeved one--but practicality is a concern that doesn't exist in the world of Gottex, and thus this gathered-front style with side cutouts was a showstopper, especially with the faux-coral neckline.
Bonus Points: Gottex really stepped up its game this season with its models--I spotted top girls Arlenis Sosa (pictured here), Abbey Lee and Sessilee Lopez.
Where to Buy: Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, and a department store near you.

Gottex Spring 2009
Where & When: Monday, September 8th at 8 p.m., the Tent, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Whenever I go to a fashion show, I like to think, "Who buys this stuff?" Is the client a career woman? A lady who lunches? A downtown party girl? But sitting through the Gottex show, I was at a loss. The collection was inspired by the Mediterranean, and the way in which the swimsuits were styled would lead me to believe that they're targeting the St. Tropez yacht crowd, but, as anyone who's been to a European beach can tell you, bikini tops are beside the point there, much less one-piece suits. So, again, who buys this stuff? The first series of looks were black with metallic gold anchor accents, accessorized with ridiculously oversized hats. Then came graphic prints, followed by bright neon suits, and then some not-so-bad Asian-inspired prints. Then came a series that were adorned with what I can only call chopsticks; all of a sudden, I had a craving for sushi. At the end were what I suppose were bridal swimsuits, since they were all white; one involved a belted bikini bottom with a hooded, draped top. That's right--a hooded bikini. I have a feeling that one is not going to make it to the stores in quite the same way; as for the others, well, there must be some yacht-hopping ladies out there who actually wear this stuff. Right?
Standout Look: This bandeau bikini was the the youngest and, to me, the most wearable look that came down the runway. And, let's face it--bikinis should be the provenance of the young.
Bonus Points: I had a seat that was close enough to the runway to see that 110-pound models have thighs that jiggle when they walk. Models--they're just like us!
Where to buy: Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Everything but Water