Cheryl Shops

When & where: Monday, February 13 at 9 a.m., the Studio, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: After last season's sparkly, youthful outing (sequined rompers come to mind first), Jenny Packham took a more sophisticated, mature direction with a collection inspired by 1940s film noir—and perhaps to drive home this point, Dita Von Teese sat in the front row. The silhouette was unmistakably '40s, with strong, padded shoulders and narrow-hipped skirts, some bias-cut, some softly flared. Many of the looks were adorned with Packham's ornate beading, elevating them beyond the typical wartime aesthetic. Also notable: While there were definitely a share of sleeveless looks, many gowns had sleeves—I didn't know if this was an appeal to the modest Duchess of Cambridge or to an older customer. Which brings me to the styling. With such a true interpretation of '40s glamour in the clothing, I found the victory roll hairdos and button earrings made the models look incredibly matronly; looser, more youthful hair and natural makeup would have made the collection look more modern and less costume-y.  
Bonus points: Packham's models did a full back-and-forth solo runway walk (normally there are at least two models walking at all times), which made the show go a bit longer than usual but allowed me to take, well, more than just a look at each look.
Where to buy: Shop online at JennyPackhamShop.com

British designer Jenny Packham is known foremost for her romantic wedding gowns and, more recently, for dressing Kate Middleton. And so Packham ventured back into more sweet territory after her sexy foray for fall, all the better to appeal to the Duchess of Cambridge's less outré tastes. The show begain with creamy, dreamy lime silk chiffon gowns and progressed through turquoise and coral before ending with a series of breathtaking crimson numbers while the Rolling Stone's "She's a Rainbow" played on (coincidentally, the processional for my wedding back in June). Interspersed throughout were heavily beaded frocks and even a flirty romper or two; Swarovski was a sponsor, and Packham knows what she's doing when it comes to sparkly beads. Packham makes eveningwear that's sweet and demure but just sexy enough to be interesting; one can see why Ms. Middleton is a fan.

Whereas Packham's version of sexy is romantic and proper and British, Carlos Miele's is all exposed limbs and sheer fabrics and Brazilian glamour. It's a caipirinha versus a white wine; both are equally refreshing in their own way. Opening with a series of three sheer swirl-print chiffon caftans, Miele's cocktail of choice this season was, like many other designers, bright color: vivid orange and green in solids and prints, mixed with gold and white; one can only imagine all the fabulous places Miele's customer will wear these things. Adding to the glamour was the relative simplicity of the shapes— clothes that don't overpower the wearer let her sexuality truly shine through.

When & Where: Monday, February 14 at 9 a.m., the Studio, Lincoln Center
Runway Recap: Known primarily for her bridal designs in the U.S. (which can be found at the likes of Saks and Bergdorf's), Packham has also been appearing up on the red carpet for years; I tend to associate her with a sparkly yet romantic look. What she showed this morning, however, was all sex--not that I'm complaining. Inspired by a Marlene Dietrich quote ("Men cluster to me/Like moths around a flame..."), nearly everything was metallic--primarily silver and gold--from liquid lamé one-shoulder gowns to intricately beaded dresses over leggings. Many looks had spiderweb or moth-patterned motifs done in beading on silk chiffon or tulle, something that should in theory be heavy, but under Packham's hand, looked light and airy. So think of Packham's evening looks as the prequel to her wedding dresses--snag a man in one of these sexy looks, then wed him in something of hers as well.
Standout Look: Short, fun, sparkly...do I need any other reasons for choosing this one? Really, though, while the gowns were gorgeous--and should likely be hitting red carpets soon--the short cocktail dresses were what really got my blood pumping.
Bonus Points: In most runway shows, as soon as a model reaches the end of the runway (or sometimes halfway down), another model enters the runway; factor in the music and you'll understand why most fashion shows are no longer than 10 minutes. At Packham's show, there was only one model on the runway at a time, which made for a slightly slower pace but allowed me enough time to actually observe and take notes on each look, in addition to photographing it.
Where to Buy: Visit JennyPackham.com for store locations (note: only bridal is available in the U.S. at the moment).