Cheryl Shops

Noon by Noor
A relatively new line, Noon by Noor is designed by two Bahraini sisters, but from the look of their fall 2013 collection, you'd never know. In rich shades of navy, forest green, and burgundy, the show had a very '70s Love Story vibe with great-looking capes, the best tie-neck blouses I've seen in awhile, and interesting takes on plaid—a element that's popping up on nearly every runway so far this season. And while I associate Noon by Noor with eveningwear, it comprised only a small part of the show, however ,beautifully translating that plaid motif into a glittery velvet and chiffon gown, and ending with some dramatic red silk gowns, some delicately embroidered, others dramatically sculpted. It makes me somewhat sad to think that such beautiful clothes will probably only be worn indoors by many of Noon by Noor's clients, but then again, women dress for each other most of the time anyway, don't they?


Nautica


Mina had a rough first day on the photo riser—being a newbie with a not-terribly-prestigious publication (hey, we're not Style.com), she kept ending up at the front or on the ground, perched in uncomfortable positions that she had to hold for an hour. Kind of like a model! Anyway, Mina bought a folding stool on her way home last night, and today she was happy as a clam. (Or a turtle, as her stool is called.) Then again, if you were shooting hotties at the Nautica show, you would be too! As for the clothes, they're pretty solid if you like 'em clean-cut, cool, and all-American. Which I do.




Monika Chiang
 Launched in 2011, Monika Chiang already has a store in Soho and a healthy e-commerce business; the fact that her boyfriend, Chris Burch, a.k.a. the former Mr. Tory Burch, is her chief investor may have something to do with it. And while it's definitely not fair to compare the two designers, it's kind of unavoidable—Tory Burch is the Park Avenue divorcée, Monika Chiang is the hot downtown nightlife denizen (really—she used to be a nightclub manager). And thus her line has things that sexy young women want to wear: leather leggings, body-conscious dresses, sheer tops. There's a definite tough vibe that runs throughout; the woman who wears these clothes may bring a man home from the club, but she might not let him stay the night. Be forewarned, Mr. Burch—you're not on Park Avenue anymore.





Rebecca Minkoff


I remember, not too long ago, when Rebecca Minkoff used to present her new collections in her showroom near Union Square; now her shows are a full-blown runway affair with live music (this season: Wild Cub) in the Theater, the biggest venue at Lincoln Center. I feel like I've been a part of her rise to fame, but maybe that's just because I have a particular weakness for her bags. And bags aside, every time I see one of her shows, I remember how great her clothes are too. For fall, in particular, there were toggle coats in everything from colorblocked wool to sleek black leather. The collection had a strong grungy undercurrent, with vintage-looking sweatshirts, nubby wools, and abstract plaids, all of which seemed more in line with Minkoff's core customer than the Balenciaga-esque bright sculptural pieces at the end of the show. But you want to know about the bags, don't you? They looked great, with Minkoff updating her signature styles in cool colorblocked motifs and shimmery finishes. Never forget your first love, right?


Nicole Miller


I always joke every season about Nicole Miller's program notes, which are often kind of a haiku. For fall, she cited menswear with a twist, a woman borrowing her boyfriend's clothes and softening them up. And while there was a lot of tailoring, with much of the collection in bad-girl black, I got a strong grunge vibe with a series of floral-jacquard, fur, leather, and burnout velvet, which puts Miller right in line with the trends emerging thus far this season. A lot of the pieces were very body-concious—think snug dresses and fantastic-looking skinny pants—while others were fluid and diaphanous, but the best looks in the show mixed both of those elements, which I guess was the "softening it up & mixing it up" that Miller alluded to. See, sometimes those crazy manifestos really do make sense!


Noon by Noor, Nautica, and Monika Chiang photos by Mina Kim. 

W118 by Walter Baker
The models at W118 by Walter Baker bobbed their heads while wearing custom-made Skullcandy headphones, and they looked so happy and mellow amidst the chaos of the tents, I almost forgot why I was there. Right, the clothes—they were pretty great, with some interesting transparent and textured fabrics, a good amount of chambray, wearable bright colors, and fun jungle prints. Many of the models were clutching nice-looking textured bags, which are Baker's latest edition to his empire. I found myself shopping the collection—always a promising sign—because not only were the clothes fun, but the models looked like they were having fun in them.
Photos by Mina Kim



Rebecca Minkoff
For spring 2013, Rebecca Minkoff gave a nod to Slim Aarons, a photographer famous for documenting the leisure class at leisure (I highly recommend his book A Place in the Sun if you want to feel particularly envious), with a collection filled with sunny prints in bright colors and easygoing, vacation-friendly separates like Baja tops, sleeveless sweatshirts, and lots of shorts. It was definitely a more casual direction than all of the fabulous dresses she showed last season, but I think that's how a lot of people dress in warmer weather—especially the jetsetters of the world. But let's not forget to pack our MAC minis—I spotted many of Minkoff's irresistible bags (literally; I'm not going to tell you how many I own, lest I embarrass myself) in fun new colors, textures, and decorations. They were definitely a hit with Lauren Conrad, who sat in between Olympians Ryan Lochte and Sandra Richards-Ross—I watched LC take photos of the looks she loved with her iPhone. Stars, they're just like us.


Nicole Miller
Whereas some designers will ramble on for paragraphs in their show notes about what inspired them this season, Nicole Miller provided a sparse, almost poetic few lines of text touching upon '80s surrealist art, sci-fi, techno, nature, and both good and bad girls. Basically, Miller let the clothes speak for themselves, and the result was one of her strongest collections in recent seasons. Pretty, super-colorful floral prints met body-hugging dresses, sheer tops mingled with sleek shorts and stretch leather leggins, and peplums abounded, the most exciting executions being jackets with removable zip-off flounces. It was a great balance of romantic and futuristic, all incredibly wearable and sure to delight Miller's loyal following.



Charlotte Ronson
It's funny, after so many years of attending Fashion Week, I had given up on ever being invited to certain designers' shows. Charlotte Ronson was one of them, but lo and behold, all of a sudden Mina & I were invited this season—with paper invitations, no less! I tend to associate Ronson with casual sportswear, so I was a bit surprised when her first few looks down the runway were ladylike dresses, complete with peplums and lace. However, she added some cool, sporty details like fishnet sleeves, sheer insets, and colorblocking. There was a definite oceanic influence, from scuba-styled dresses to some really beautiful digital ocean prints (I'll admit, being a pisces, I'm a sucker for those) and a dose of my favorite under-used neutral, navy. I'd stay away from the super-fashiony clear colored plastic jackets and bra tops, but definitely grab some of the big, slouchy bags, and take a cue from the fresh-faced makeup and beachy-waved hair. Pretty, no?
Photos by Mina Kim

When & where: Friday, February 10 at 6 p.m., the Studio, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: I've often commented on the loftiness of designers' show notes, but Nicole Miller, thankfully, tends to be a bit more literal. This season, she was "intrigued by what new surfaces I can print on," in reference to the digital prints she's been using the last few seasons. After her jaunt through the '80s last season, I was expecting a return to modern times for Miller, so I was a bit surprised when very retro Sgt. Pepper-style looks started coming down the runway—peasant blouses, velvet frock coats, corduroy bell-bottoms, patchwork suede, the whole nine yards. The prints were indeed great, and they probably kept the collection from becoming too overtly retro, however it felt like Miller was a season or two late in jumping on the '70s bandwagon. That said, there were a lot of great pieces, especially a series of flocked black maxi dresses toward the end, and some strong-shouldered jackets.

Bonus points: The music for this show could have been obvious—think late '60s-early '70s psychedelic rock—but thankfully Miller stuck with a slightly more modern choice: "Encore" by Jay-Z.

Where to buy: Click here to find a store.

One of my favorite party dresses is by Nicole Miller; it's strapless, bright magenta chiffon, and it never fails to draw compliments. In spite of that, I tend to associate Miller with a very tough, strong, sleek, sharply tailored silhouette; her daywear is very geared toward the New York woman, and by extension, it relies heavily on shades of black and gray. So imagine my surprise at her show on Friday, which delved into Miller's own '80s archives and was inspired by wheels in motion, i.e. bikes and skateboards—it was a lot of color and print, and once I got over my initial surprise, I found it superfun. It's definitely a younger, sportier influence for Miller, but it was interesting to see how she worked the theme into her signature trim sheath dresses and otherwise body-conscious separates. The prints were wild, and I am always a fan of bright color, but to avoid too much of a good thing, I think the most successful looks were the ones where the brightly printed pieces were paired with more subtle solids. It felt like a natural evolution of fall's colorblocking, and so far, bright '80s surfer-skater inspiration has been one of spring's biggest emerging trends, proving that Nicole Miller not only knows what's next but that she can show you how to wear it in a realistic, modern way.

When & Where: Friday, February 11 at 6 p.m., the Studio, Lincoln Center
Runway Recap: As soon as I read Nicole Miller's show notes, I knew I was going to like her fall collection—the first line was, "Angles over curves with a menswear influence." And that's a very succinct way of describing what was a mixture of geometric digital prints and piecework paired with soft, slouchy paperbag pants and asymmetrical shapes. There was a warrior-esque vibe throughout and a definite futuristic bent, complete with shiny techno fabrics and pointy pailettes. It all felt very forward-thinking and yet comfortable at the same time.
Standout Look: My camera died halfway through the show, but here's an example of the contrast Miller worked up, between the fitted, shimmery, triangular-detailed top and a more fluid, softer pair of wide-leg trousers. I loved the rich cobalt blue she used in the first few looks (the only other color in the show was in a series of persimmon-red looks at the end); using color so sparingly makes such a striking impact.
Bonus Points: I know I say this every time, but Nicole Miller is one of the few designers who puts my name on my seat (normally there's just a number). It's a little gesture, but it says a lot.
Where to Buy: Find a store here.

Where & When: Friday, September 10 at 5 p.m., 82 Mercer Street
Runway Recap: When it comes to fashion, I believe in having an open mind. For example, Nicole Miller has a line for J.C. Penney, and because of that, I worry that people associate her with sensible, career-woman wear. And while Miller does make a lot of clothing that suits the working woman (not that that's anything to complain about), I feel that she doesn't get enough attention for making really fashion-forward clothes that easily integrate into one's wardrobe. Miller is in her 50s, but what she showed on Friday puts her in line talent-wise with designers half her age--designers, that is, whom the critics tend to fawn over. Miller captured spring's airy silk chiffon moment but mixed it with harnesses and, dare I say, bondage-inspired details. It was all very innerwear-as-outerwear, but lest it get too kinky, she kept it all very practical by layering with tailored vests and jackets. With back cowls and cutouts, never before has the phrase "business in the front, party in the back" been so apt.
Standout Look: This is actually only two pieces--a leather vest with built-in drape, and a jersey-georgette dress--but their layered effect makes it look all the more complex and harmonious at the same time in that the structure of the vest anchors the diaphanous dress.
Bonus Points: Nicole Miller loves bloggers, and for that I love her. And, also, because she always puts my name on my chair, and that makes me feel special.
Where to Buy: Click here for stores.

Where & When: Friday, February 12 at 6 p.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Snowstorms, exploding buildings, the subways during rush hour...it's a rough world out there in New York City. Thankfully, Nicole Miller is armed and ready to provide the city girl with a wardrobe of strong-shouldered coats with leather details, don't-mess-with-me vests, and camouflage-y prints. Underneath it all, however, are sexy, close-to-the-body jersey dresses that pick up where Miller left off last season, moving the idea forward to an even more detailed place. The hardened-exterior, soft-hearted concept perfectly describes a lot of NYC girls I know, which just proves that Miller has her finger on the pulse of urbane chic.
Standout Look: This badass coat--it's wool with leather sleeves--and fitted, textured zip-front dress encapsulate the hard-and-soft concept that ran throughout the collection. And I appreciate that Miller went heavy on the black, because, especially in fall and winter, it's what city folk actually wear, after all.
Bonus Points: In a world where gift bags are often reserved for only the front row, every last seat in the Salon received a bottle of Miller's perfume. The show also drew a healthy celebrity attendance: Beth Stern and Kelly Rutheford, who were both, good-naturedly, wearing the same dress; plus Amber Rose, Richie Rich, and, randomly, Jay McInerney.
Where to Buy: Click here for stores.

Of the 35 shows I saw, here are my personal favorite ten, in no particular order.

Vena Cava
Airy chiffon dresses and quirky prints meet leather pants and punky details to create a downtown girl's ultimate wardrobe.


Rad Hourani
Without regard to season or trend, Rad further refines his signature look of boxy biker jackets and skinny pants.


Tibi
With bright colors, pretty prints, and a Guns N Roses soundtrack, Tibi delivered a breath of fresh spring air.



Yigal Azrouel
The draped jersey dresses, pegged trousers, and washed leather jackets of my dreams.


Toni Maticevski
With artfully shredded tulle and sooty colors, decaying glamour has never looked more beautiful.


Max Azria
It looks like Max Azria has found a strong voice for his signature line: an edgy minimalist sophisticate.


Rebecca Minkoff
Totally on-trend, wearable looks that gave a nod to early-'90s Versace and the Supermodels.


Chado Ralph Rucci
Impeccable from start to finish, with an incredible regard for a woman's body, a gorgeous collection that twisted and turned around the spine.


Nicole Miller
The perfect juxtaposition between techno-sleek structure versus soft fluidity.


Ports 1961
A lovely voyage to Japan, rendered in gorgeous fabrics and shapes that effortlessly floated away from the body.

Where & When: Friday, September 11th at 6 p.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: While her contemporaries have come and gone and come back again, Nicole Miller has been quietly plugging along since the early '90s, no mean feat for an independent designer. The key to her success has been making flattering, wearable clothes for real women's lives--blouses and pencil skirts for work, pretty dresses for evening--but instead of resting on the laurels of her loyal clientele, Miller continues to challenge herself and push her designs in new directions without forsaking their accessibility. As her program notes announced, "The girl has a tougher edge, pushing forward body consciousness...experimenting with new technology." While weaving draped bits of digital-looking prints throughout, Miller showed very close-to-the-body looks, from fitted motocross jackets to banded skirts and dresses with their ruched fabric tightly wrapped and twisted around the body. She also played with floating georgette and slinky satins, contrasting their fluidity with structured, stretchy scuba and twill fabrics. With the exception of a pair of seamed white leggings, the entire collection was wearable (even the ruched bike shorts were a thoughtful, practical interpretation of a hard-to-wear trend) and, more importantly, interesting. With work like this, I can't wait to see what risks Miller takes next season.
Standout Look: This stretch leather biker vest, layered over a tank and a silk twill skirt with a printed panel demonstrates the essence of the collection: structure vs. fluidity. The practicality lies in the asymmetrical drape of the skirt, camouflaging the hips with a pretty swath of fabric.
Bonus Points: Miller pulled out all the stops with this one. My seat, in the third row, had my name and website printed on back of the chair (a first for me), and happened to be directly behind the celeb trifecta of Ciara (now with long hair), Amerie, and Amber Rose (a.k.a. Kanye West's girlfriend). Props to them for being able to see what went down the runway, because the flashbulbs from the cameras swarming them pre-show were so bright, I had to pull an Anna Wintour and put on my sunglasses.
Where to Buy: Click here to find a store near you.