Cheryl Shops

Where & When: Sunday, February 14 at 2:00 p.m., Bryant Park Salon
Runway Recap: So in contrast to last fall when not a soul with a standing invite got in, I was thankful to gain entrance this year. However, only a handful of blog press was allowed in, and we were all smooshed in the corner with obstructed view. I'm glad I was able to bring you these photos by raising my camera up high, but unfortunately I couldn't see the models' calves or shoes.
Standout Look: Beautiful fur vest (top).
Bonus Points: Pixie-faced models and high celebrity presence, including Carmen Electra, the omnipresent girls of The Hills, and Entourage's Alexis Dziena (below).
Where to Buy: Click here to shop on Rebecca Taylor's official site.

Where & When: Sunday, February 14 at 12:00 p.m., Altman Building
Runway Recap: Oh, mesmerizing modness! These are the looks my dreams are made of. I'm going to let the photos speak for themselves, since I took a lot of them from the front row.
Standout Look: Head-turning purple and burgundy striped suit (top) and the white/black/grey plaid suit (top). Also, Mr. All Grey In Gloves gave me a chuckle (very bottom).
Bonus Points: Big nerdy glasses sitting atop of breathtakingly handsome mugs.
Where to Buy: Bergdorf Goodman, Barney's, Bloomingdale's, Scoop

Where & When: Saturday, February 13 at 8:30 p.m., Bryant Park Tent
Presentation Recap: Featuring lines by South Africa's Black Coffee (above), Tanzania's Loin Cloth & Ashes (middle), and Nigeria's Deola Sagoe (bottom of post). Black Coffee's fall line wrapped its models in cushion and thick ruffles. I'm not personally a fan of clothes that severely bulk up the female form, but it looked artful on the runway despite this. Loin Cloth & Ashes also featured a lot of ruffles and volume, but the formlessness of some pieces was offset by stunning, large blue medallions.
Deola Sagoe was the last and most applauded of the three, with good reason. Deola's collection showed off a dazzling array of jewel tones and metallics in varying textures, and bold (but wearable) experimentation.
Standout Look: I was reminded of Ziggy Stardust when one of Deola's numbers came out on the runway. Broad structured shoulders framed an alienesque rocker outfit (second below, second from left).
Bonus Points: Creepy-chic snail shell hairdos on the Black Coffee models. Also the fact that Deola herself came out decked out in one of her sexy creations (far bottom).

Where & When: Saturday, February 13 at 7:00 p.m., 580 8th Ave.
Presentation Recap: Ivy Higa took inspiration from the idea of Japanese samurai to create this comfortable line saturated with neutrals and crimson. The presentation was held in a small room filled with mostly-still models. Some of them were over-vogueing for the camera, making me feel awkward in such close quarters...I dipped in, took my shots, and scurried back out to Bryant Park.
Standout Look: Particularly cute was the look featuring the "Tosu" skirt with pockets (shown above, second from the left).
Bonus Points: Lots of cute ties on waists and legs.
Where to Buy: Click here to see Ivy h. stockists.

Where & When: Sunday, February 14 at 1 p.m., Greenwich Street studio
Runway Recap: You know the sketches on Saturday Night Live when they make fun of Suze Orman and her jackets? (Give me a minute, here--I am going somewhere with this.) I can totally relate; I consider jackets the ultimate outfit makers, and I will not hesitate to buy a truly fantastic one, no matter what the cost. It looks like I will be dropping significant change this fall on the stellar series of blazers and coats that Donna Karan showed this afternoon in her DKNY collection: There were perfectly slouchy boyfriend jackets, a riding blazer with sexy leather sleeves, a prim-and-proper collarless style, and wrap coats in both a rich burgundy wool and an outrageous metallic fur, and just when you think you're set in the trenchcoat department, along comes a cropped, slightly boxy double-breasted style that you simply must have. The overall vibe was equal parts equestrian, schoolgirl, and Art Deco--kicky pleated skirts and aforementioned jackets of all shapes mixed with colorblocked knits, many of which were accented with bursts of sequins. Even the accessories were pitch-perfect, from chunky scarves and newsboy caps (courtesy of Albertus Swanepoel) down to the color-coordinated handbags and sky-high heels; this just goes to show that not only does Karan think about her customer's entire look, she executes it all so well too.
Standout Look: Since my photos were actually pretty good this time around (and since this show was so all-around awesome), I'm picking two. One is a beaded cardigan jacket layered over a striped tee, proving that you can mix two different stripes, and paired with one of many covetable pleated skirts. The second is a mixed-media Art Deco collage dress, paired with an intarsia Cozy--yes, even the essential DKNY Cozy gets an update for fall. Even so, I could add a good 10 more looks to this list--the collection was that good.
Bonus Points: There are not many designers for whom I get down on my knees, but I spent the entire show happily kneeling at the end of a riser in order to see. Not that I'm complaining--I was lucky even to be invited. Actresses Keke Palmer and Allison Brie, singer Little Boots, and socialite Poppy Delvigne, also fans, had slightly more comfortable front-row seats.
Where to Buy: Find a store here.

Where & When: Sunday, February 14 from 11-12:30, Union Square Ballroom
Runway Recap: Former model Abigail Lorick's collection is perhaps best known for standing in for Eleanor Waldorf's fashion line on Gossip Girl. Her designs are perfect for the characters on the show, as well as for real-life New York City girls--they're polished enough to wear to lunch at Rouge Tomate uptown but funky enough for a night of partying at the Boom Boom Room downtown. This season, inspired by the concept of angels and cocoons, the former was represented in sky blue dresses and airy gold metallic, while nubby tweeds and forest-like prints referenced the latter. I detected a 1930s undercurrent too, which makes this collection very on trend for fall.
Standout Look: From the powdery-soft blue color to the swirly, intricately ruched skirt, this strapless party dress stood out for its balance of classic femininity and interesting details.
Bonus Points: Sometimes the styling of a show can overwhelm the clothes, and sometimes it's so nonexistent, the clothes look boring as a result. In this case, however, the styling was just right: vintage-looking pillbox hats, glittery tights, Subversive jewelry, slouchy long gloves, and peep-toe booties from Tashkent enhanced Lorick's clothes with a 1930s-meets-East-Village vibe.
Where to Buy: Click here for stores.

Where & When: Sunday, February 14 at 10 a.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: There are designers who make clothes that are merely pretty, and then there is Lela Rose, who manages to make pretty clothes that are borne from interesting places. Case in point: this collection was inspired by night skies, Hubble telescope imagery, and the Galapagos Islands. These disparate sources resulted in lovely textures and colors, from a flame-orange anorak dress to a "lagoon-print" sheath dress, and clustery-beaded dresses meant to evoke moon rocks. Metallics played a strong role--the better to evoke a galaxy--with a starry metallic bouclé jacket, a futuristic liquid lamé jumpsuit, and a series of glittery party dresses. One can only imagine the colorful conversations that Rose's dresses might inspire amongst the society types who tend to wear them.
Standout Look: While Rose has some great separates--flouncy jackets and fresh-looking miniskirts among them--she truly excels at dresses, both of the daytime and nighttime variety. I thought this shimmery "asteroid silk" number was a refined yet relaxed take on the eternally flattering goddess look, with a one-shouldered design that smartly covers the upper arm.
Bonus Points: Rose is a Southerner and knows the meaning of hospitality; her shows always feature generously stocked gift bags, and her publicists at Krupp Group are some of the nicest in the biz.
Where to Buy: Visit LelaRose.com for stores.

Where & When: Saturday, February 13 at 7 p.m., SIR Stage 37
Runway Recap: Irina Shabayeva earned the nickname "Meana Irinia" last season on Project Runway, but perhaps she was just annoyed about having to compete with contestants that were so far below her talent-wise. Shabayeva's skill as a designer was obvious from the start, and her collection last night proved that her win was no flash in the pan. The inspiration in her collection--birds--was clear from the invitation to the set design to the clothes themselves. You are either a bird person or you're not, and since I am, I was rather dazzled by what came down the runway: dramatic, high-volume coats and capes with hand-painted feathers; sexy skinny leather pants; an ombré chubby fur coat; and a spectacularly dramatic ribbed sweater coat. The feather-adorned dresses were a bit too literal for my taste, but the the three sweeping gowns that closed the show drew strong murmurs of appreciation from the audience.
Standout Look: While I wouldn't encourage you to wear these two pieces together--it would be a bit too matchy-matchy off the runway--here's one of Shabayeva's more subtle but still outstanding jackets, with the feather detailing just on the lapels. The truly fantastic skinny pants are beaded to look like feathers--a flight of fancy indeed.
Bonus Points: Shabayeva may be burning through her Project Runway winnings, but her packed show pulled out all the stops, from the well-stocked gift bags to the waiters circulating with cocktails, to the (gasp!) raised runway. Seriously, you have no idea how rare a raised runway is, and they're much appreciated to those of us who don't sit in the front row and would still like to see the models from the knee down.
Where to Buy: Shop online here.

Where & When: Saturday, February 13 at 6 p.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: I always love Wenlan Chia's Twinkle shows--they're consistently one of my favorites of Fashion Week--but if I had one criticism in the past, it would be that she never shows enough of her signature knit pieces, which I adore. Thankfully, she rectified the situation this season with a generous smattering of knits in what she calls "baby chunky," a mix of gauges that creates a varied thickness and shape. Chia also excels in what I decided to call the Thinking Woman's Party Dress: frocks that are definitely meant for a night on the town, and this season they ranged from formfitting and paneled to flutter-sleeved and flowing to artfully draped to sweet, long-sleeved shifts. These dresses leave enough to the imagination, and they're constructed so that the wearer feels comfortable--because, after all, confidence is what's truly sexy, and Chia clearly understands this. From these to the cozy knits and flexible skinny pants, she knows exactly what cool girls want to wear.
Standout Look: While there were so many great dresses from which to choose, this was among my favorites, from its sweet print to its embellished neckline (no additional jewelry required!) and full, fluttery sleeves. The shape is soft, pretty, and relaxed, and I can totally picture myself wearing it.
Bonus Points: Upgrading to the Promenade (from her usual Salon venue) upgraded my seat as well; it was the best (assigned) one I had thus far.
Where to Buy: Click here for stores.

Where & When: Saturday, February 13 at 1 p.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: All manner of textures--from sheared mink to pleated silk and the most liquid-looking sequins I've ever seen--mixed and mingled in a superb series of separates from Korean husband-and-wife duo Andy & Debb. There were items you never realized you needed, like a tuxedo jumpsuit and Edwardian ruffle-collar dresses, and others that you'll want in your closet ASAP, such as peak-sleeve blazers, great-looking pants, and cozy fur vests. With so many appealing pieces, let's hope that this collection is the one that gives this talented duo the recognition they deserve.
Standout Look: This is the kind of dress (layered over a Victorian collared blouse) that you can wear to work all day, then out to anything from a cocktail party to the theater. I love the contrast between the metallic collar and the jacquard pattern, and the cinched-waist shape is flattering to a range of body types. Also, the long sleeves make it practical for cold weather, proving that function and fashion can coexist.
Bonus Points: Generous gift bags & boxes containing luxe Amore Pacific skincare samples.
Where to Buy: Neiman Marcus and more online.

Where & When: Saturday, February 13 at 11 a.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Oftentimes, when one enters a fashion show, one is greeted by a designer's diatribe on what has inspired them this season. Sometimes the references are obvious, sometimes they're oblique, but, regardless, you ponder the Big Ideas behind the collection and fret over how to work them into your review. At Edition Georges Chakra, there were no such notes--only a run-of-show sheet listing the 42 looks--and thus I was able to sit back and enjoy the show. Edition is chiefly an eveningwear affair, and the show flowed from fitted cocktail sheaths into sharply tailored suits and tuxedos, ending with flashbulb-worthy gowns sure to be seen soon on a red carpet near you. What makes Chakra's designs interesting is his adventurous use of fabrics, mixing futuristic materials like lamé wool and glazed wool gabardine with classic Chantilly lace and always-in-style chiffon. While a series of backwards tuxedo dresses were a little Celine-Dion-circa-1997, the sexy laser-cut gowns more than made up for the missteps.
Standout Look: If this is the future of red carpet fashion, then beam me up: a one-shoulder gold lamé gown with an asymmetrical cutout detail slashed across the front. The fit on this gown, as with all in the show, was impeccable.
Bonus Points: There's nothing like a little electronica to wake you up in the morning, and this show featured, among other songs, the weirdly hilarious "No Milk" by Munk and a strange but oddly appealing remix of "Two Weeks" by Grizzly Bear.
Where to Buy: Click here for stores.

Where & When: Friday, February 12 at 6 p.m., the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Snowstorms, exploding buildings, the subways during rush hour...it's a rough world out there in New York City. Thankfully, Nicole Miller is armed and ready to provide the city girl with a wardrobe of strong-shouldered coats with leather details, don't-mess-with-me vests, and camouflage-y prints. Underneath it all, however, are sexy, close-to-the-body jersey dresses that pick up where Miller left off last season, moving the idea forward to an even more detailed place. The hardened-exterior, soft-hearted concept perfectly describes a lot of NYC girls I know, which just proves that Miller has her finger on the pulse of urbane chic.
Standout Look: This badass coat--it's wool with leather sleeves--and fitted, textured zip-front dress encapsulate the hard-and-soft concept that ran throughout the collection. And I appreciate that Miller went heavy on the black, because, especially in fall and winter, it's what city folk actually wear, after all.
Bonus Points: In a world where gift bags are often reserved for only the front row, every last seat in the Salon received a bottle of Miller's perfume. The show also drew a healthy celebrity attendance: Beth Stern and Kelly Rutheford, who were both, good-naturedly, wearing the same dress; plus Amber Rose, Richie Rich, and, randomly, Jay McInerney.
Where to Buy: Click here for stores.

Where & When: Friday, February 12 at 6:30 p.m., Altman Building
Runway Recap: Berardi presented a striking set of evening dresses, glam office wear, and shirt dresses. This show progressed visually much like the way a friend of mine organizes her bookshelf. Beginning with a heavy dose of black and white, Berardi's collection transitioned into purples and reds, culminating in sparkly silver and opal.
Standout Look: Rows of black faux roses double as suspenders in Berardi's world. I could see this conversation-stirring accessory making it more mainstream.
Bonus Points: I'm glad that frizzy big hair is still happening.

Where & When: Friday, February 12 at 3 p.m., the Promenade, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Part of what makes Christian Siriano so appealing as a designer is his exuberance; he's all catch phrases and witticisms, yes, but he's also extremely talented--perhaps the most worthy designer ever to win Project Runway. (After all, he's the only former contestant still showing in the tents.) And while Siriano has approached growing his brand in a smart way--collaborations with Starbucks, Victoria's Secret Beauty, and of course Payless generate extra cash to fund his ready-to-wear business--I can't help but wonder if his backers laid down the law and told him to start showing more sellable clothing. You could almost sense Siriano's restraint in the lovely, ladylike suits and sheath dresses that opened the show. Of course, you can only contain a designer's spirit for so long, and thus when a series of nicely ruffled cocktail dresses gave way to showstopping ballgowns, the Christian we all know and love was back, exhaling a sigh of relief. While he clearly excels at eveningwear, it's the daytime looks that pay the bills; let's hope he can find a way to, as Tim Gunn might say, "make it work."
Standout Look: Sesilee Lopez, who's had a relationship with Siriano from the start of Project Runway and who's now a top model, opened and closed the show. This gorgeously ruffled fuchsia gown drew an enthusiastic response from the crowd, and Sesilee worked it to perfection.
Bonus Points: The front row was stocked with a random but noteworthy assortment of celebs: Mena Suvari, Kat Deluna, Caridee English (of ANTM fame), real model Veronica Webb, Leigh Lezark, and Amber Rose.
Where to Buy: Click here for store locations.

Where & When: Friday, February 12 at noon, the Salon, Bryant Park
Runway Recap: Australian designer Michael Angel is known for his colorful digital prints, and thus it was a bit unexpected to see the first few looks down the runway--a series of draped dresses and suits in neutral wool and silk crepe. The signature prints turned up eventually, in both second-skin minidresses as well as more voluminous sleeveless styles and sharp-looking peplum jackets. The most successful looks incorporated jackets or vests in metallic laminated lace, which had the effect of spun sugar and created a softer, romantic counterpoint to the sleek, ultramodern printed pieces.
Standout Look: The contrast in textures and sensibilities between this gold lace vest and stretch jersey print dress seems counter-intuitive, but the pieces harmonize in tone and fit, and they pushed Angel's style forward without sacrificing its essence.
Bonus Points: Among the downtowny, fashion-cred audience were bloggers Susie Bubble, Bryanboy, and Julia Frakes, and rock-scions Kelly Osbourne and Sean Lennon were in the front row.
Where to Buy: Click here to shop.

Where & When: Thursday, February 11 at 7 p.m., Chado Ralph Rucci atelier
Runway Recap: Last season's Chado Ralph Rucci show was a spectacle in more ways than one--it was held in the Tent, the largest, showiest venue at Bryant Park, and, if you've been watching Kell on Earth on Bravo, you might have heard about the computer snafu that caused a check-in disaster of epic proportions (and ultimately resulted in Rucci seeking new press representation). And while the artistry of Rucci's designs was apparent even from the back row of the Tent, imagine the impact of seeing them up close. Thus for his fall show, Rucci took an about-face, showing his new collection in the far more intimate space of his own atelier in Soho. Sitting mere feet from the runway, one could see every last detail clearly; it was like being in a museum, except that the spectators were static and the works of art in motion. Rucci's understanding and manipulating of fabric knows no bounds: he tears up cashmere, then pieces it back together on a silk tulle base. A breathtaking series of pieces in moiré silk featured quilting that traced the natural patterns of the fiber, evoking wood grains. Black sable was suspended in horsehair, so that the fur appeared to orbit around the body. Rucci even created what appeared to be feathers out of silk georgette and organza, using them to define the spine of a black velvet dress or to cover a gown that, in motion, looked like thousands of fluttering eyelashes. In all, it was 60 looks, and I easily could've watched another 60--I didn't want it to end.
Standout Look: If you ask me, they were all standout looks, but among my favorites (yes, I'm picking more than one) was this broadtail and horsehair coat. I never thought fur could look airy or light, but this one looked so streamlined and elegant, but, with the slashes, modern and forward-thinking as well. This dress stood out for me as well; the program notes call it "trapped feather," and it was--feathers hiding under a layer of silk tulle. I thought the effect this technique created nicely mirrored the murals that Rucci himself had painted on the studio's walls.
Bonus Points: From Rucci's lovely in-house PR team to the intimacy of the venue, I felt like I was in a warm, comfortable salon amongst friends. That is, if my friends were Martha Stewart, Whoopi Goldberg, Fran Leibowitz, Patti Smith, Deeda Blair, and a host of NYC's top socialites.
Where to Buy: Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, and select Neiman Marcus stores.

Where & When: Thursday, February 11 at 8 p.m., Bryant Park Promenade
Runway Recap: Some of the most gorgeous male models showcased Eric Kim's fall collection, evoking a lot of excitement from those of us fortunate to be there. Despite being covered head to toe in wool, leather and beanies, these boys really took the collection to a higher state of being. Many of the models carried equally gorgeous black leather and pony hair day bags and briefcases, which in some cases caused murmurs and hoots in the audience. Overall, the astutely-tailored looks featured lots of structure offset by delicate asymmetries and were understated enough for practicality and wide appeal. The collection consisted predominantly of coats and jackets, with a few amazing three-piece suits laced in between. Men wearing high boots...a trend I wouldn't mind becoming more widespread.
Standout Look: An enormous zippered hood that made an image of Sally Field's flying nun flash through my head.
Bonus Points: Eric Kim brought a tricked-out baby with him onto the runway at the end. A crowd-pleasing move.

...my review of tonight's Chado Ralph Rucci show & more reviews!

Where & When: Thursday, February 11 from 6-8 p.m., Openhouse Gallery
Runway Recap: One could argue that there is a cult of Mara Hoffman--her colorful prints have a strong following, and while she tends not to deviate too far from her signature elements, she always manages to come up with fresh ways in which to expand upon her repertoire. This season's outing took on a mystical influence, with prints ranging from kaleidoscopic and trippy to hieroglyphic and tribal. Lest the collection get too Age of Aquarius, Hoffman worked in a futuristic element with glittery jackets and dresses constructed with tubular draped segments.
Standout Look: I fully support Hoffman's unwavering devotion to the maxi-dress, and of all the different silhouettes in the collection, the longer styles were, to me, the most successful. This fuller, long-sleeved style is directional--the flowy, bohemian '70s look is coming back strong, and this is a perfect example of how we'll be dressing six months from now.
Bonus Points: This was my first of several shows produced by People's Revolution, and it was highly entertaining to see founder Kelly Cutrone in action. (I should note that she was being photographed just as much as--if not more so--than the models.)
Where to Buy: Click here for store locations.

Where & When: Thursday, February 10 at 2 p.m., the Altman Building
Runway Recap: When I write about awards-show fashion, my one recurring lament is that no one takes risks on the red carpet. Of course, no one likes a tongue-lashing from Joan Rivers, but if a starlet were to venture out with the artistry of Toni Maticevski's designs, I think even the mean-girl bloggers would have to bite their tongues. Today's eveningwear-heavy collection featured gorgeous dresses in varying states of deshabillé, from shredded chiffon gowns that appeared to disintegrate outward from the body, to closer-fitting sequined bras and Spanx-like skirts adorned with half peplums and draped swaths of satin. They're not the most practical looks, but that's beside the point. Their inherent drama would be most at home on a red carpet, although with so much sheerness and exposure, Maticevski's designs might be best suited for a more intimate environment.
Standout Look: Constructed and deconstructed at the same time, this sequined top and layered chiffon skirt were among the more conventionally wearable--yet still provocative--looks Maticevski presented.
Bonus Points: I always love seeing shows at the Altman Building--the atmosphere is much more serene, and they always have free Page Six Magazines and Fiji Water.
Where to Buy: Email info@tonimaticevski.com for information.