Cheryl Shops

When & where: Saturday, February 11 at 7 p.m., the Theatre, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: Has Monique Lhuillier been reading The Hunger Games? I felt a definite Katniss Everdeen vibe to her fall collection, a strong outing filled with power shoulders, leather insets, and red, red, and more red, the ultimate power color. For day, Lhuillier sent out some body-conscious separates and luxe-looking wool and fur coats, but she brought out the big guns—or the bow-and-arrow, if we're sticking with Hunger Games here—for evening with everything from a sequined-lapel slim-cut tuxedo to crepe and chiffon gowns adorned with lace, incredibly intricate beading, and sexy tulle cutouts. Lhuillier stuck to a tightly focused palette of black, gold, and red, all perfect for the Girl on Fire. Obviously the collection won't be available by the time the move hits theatres next month, but any of these gowns would be perfect for Hunger Games star Jennifer Lawrence (or any other star, for that matter) to wear to the Oscars in a few weeks. Expect some winning (sorry, couldn't resist) red carpet appearances soon.

Bonus points: My assigned seat was in the 3rd row, right at the end of the runway, which is a pretty good seat as far as I'm concerned. However, I few minutes before showtime, one of the representatives from Lhullier's PR firm, Haan Projects, moved me to the front row to fill an empty seat. Yep, the front row. It wasn't my first time there, but being able to see the beauty of her clothes up close was truly a treat. I now understand why some people are so rabid about it.

Where to buy: Visit moniquelhuillier.com for store locations.

When & where: Saturday, February 11 at 6 p.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center

Runway recap: Once upon a time, Tibi was a fledgling contemporary label known for colorful prints and perfectly fun party dresses. My closet is stocked with them. But last season, designer Amy Smilovic started to shift away from those signature elements and into a more tailored, polished direction. It was a bit jarring, and maybe I was hoping (a little bit) to see a return to the lighthearted looks of yesteryear, but with this season's menswear-focused, minimalist collection, I think the new, more mature Tibi is here to stay. And, you know, I am okay with that. She sent some of the best-looking pants I've seen so far this week down the runway—slim, sleek, cropped—and wove in a futuristic bent by pairing nubby-knit sweaters with liquid leather skirts. In case you were wondering, there was one print, a Hitchcock-eque bird one, and even if it's all the print we get, I'll be happy; it's important to remember where you came from, even as a designer. But at some point, everyone has to grow up—even the Tibi customer.
Bonus points: A popular guest on Terry Richardson's blog, I was excited to see pillow-lipped model Lindsey Wixon in person, on the runway. Let's just say I can see why Terry is so enamored with her...assets.
Where to buy: Click here for store locations.

When & where: Saturday, February 11 at 4 p.m., Eyebeam Atelier

Runway recap: After Thursday's article in the Times on how Siriano is trying to win over fashion critics (in spite of having a so far very successful business), I was expecting a toned-down affair. And I was right. One definitely felt Siriano's restraint (or perhaps that of his stylist, Danielle Nachmani), in that much of the collection consisted of trim, polished day looks and evening dresses that, by Siriano's standards, felt almost minimal. Which is not to say that the collection wasn't gorgeous. It was, and as in the past, the fabrics looked rich, with faux croc, faux pony, jacquard, and brocade. He was inspired by the 1930s film The Vampire Bat, and even with such a dramatic-Goth starting point, Siriano didn't let the theme run away with the collection, instead interpreting it in everything from recurring wing-like flounce overlays to "bat vein" patterns. I'm sure it will all sell well, but let's hope there are customers out there who will shell out for the signature showstopping gowns at the end—aside from being audience favorites, they're what made us all fall in love with Siriano in the first place.

Bonus points: An eclectic front row if there ever was one (and proof of Siriano's widespread appeal), it featured Gabourey Sidibe, Mena Suvari, The Vampire Diaries' Nina Dobrev, and Brad Goreski.

Where to buy: Visit ChristianSiriano.com for stockists.

When & where: Saturday, February 11 at 2 p.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: It's been several seasons since Mara Hoffman has done a proper runway show—her most recent outings have been pretty limited presentations, so it was exciting to see the full range of options for wearing her signature graphic prints and patterns, this season with a mystical South American vibe (complete with hat-and-headscarf styling). There were many of the flowing maxi dresses Hoffman is perhaps most famous for, but this season, the newness came in tiered silhouettes and styles that combined beaded patterns with solid knits. Hoffman also showed a bunch of great sweaters and printed pants, sure to be a hit among the fedora-wearing hipsters in the audience.

Bonus points: As befits Hoffman's cool, downtown audience, the music was some of the best I've heard so far this season, with "Ritual Union" by Little Dragon, "Truth" by Alexander, and "Genesis" by Grimes. Shazam didn't work for the 3rd song, however, so if anyone out there knows what it was, please let me know!

Where to buy: Click here for stores.

When & where: Friday, February 10 at 6 p.m., the Studio, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: I've often commented on the loftiness of designers' show notes, but Nicole Miller, thankfully, tends to be a bit more literal. This season, she was "intrigued by what new surfaces I can print on," in reference to the digital prints she's been using the last few seasons. After her jaunt through the '80s last season, I was expecting a return to modern times for Miller, so I was a bit surprised when very retro Sgt. Pepper-style looks started coming down the runway—peasant blouses, velvet frock coats, corduroy bell-bottoms, patchwork suede, the whole nine yards. The prints were indeed great, and they probably kept the collection from becoming too overtly retro, however it felt like Miller was a season or two late in jumping on the '70s bandwagon. That said, there were a lot of great pieces, especially a series of flocked black maxi dresses toward the end, and some strong-shouldered jackets.

Bonus points: The music for this show could have been obvious—think late '60s-early '70s psychedelic rock—but thankfully Miller stuck with a slightly more modern choice: "Encore" by Jay-Z.

Where to buy: Click here to find a store.

When & where: Friday, February 10 at 3 p.m., the Theatre, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: There are designers who feel the need to make a Big Statement about fashion every season, and then there are designers like Rebecca Minkoff who just want to give their loyal clientele some good clothes to wear. So her collection didn't entirely reinvent the wheel, but I'm okay with that, because there was so much good stuff coming down the runway: bright red, orange, yellow, blue, and purple pants and dresses, generously shaped coats (some with sequined sleeves), and a printed maxi shirtdress that I absolutely must have. (Finding oneself shopping from the runway is almost always a good thing.) And in case you were wondering, yes, the bags and shoes look stellar as well, with brightly colored booties and interesting new treatments for her ever-popular Morning After Bag. 
Bonus points: Rapper Theophilus London performed during the show and cavorted with the models, reminding us that fashion doesn't always have to be so serious.
Where to buy: Click here for store locations.

When & where: Friday, February 11 at 2 p.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: In the growing world of contemporary fashion, Rebecca Taylor has been around for a while, and with good reason—she consistently delivers pretty yet cool, wearable clothes with a slight '70s bohemian edge. So I was pleased to see her go a bit darker for fall—in color palette and in tone—with a grungy yet glamorous collection of great-looking coats, quilted skirts, luxe velvet sweatshirts, and wispy chiffon dresses, many layered over leggings with a sequined racing stripe. It was a risk, but it worked, due in large part to the mix of rich-looking textures. And, hey, who doesn't love sparkle?

Bonus points: Layering is something a lot of women struggle with, but Taylor made it look effortless and thus her head-to-toe looks should be an easy sell—down to the furry, buckled boots paired with many of the ensembles.

Where to buy: Click here for store locations.

When & where: Thursday, February 9 at 11 a.m., The Standard Hotel

Runway recap: Western Pennsylvania-born Katie Gallagher's show was themed "Silent Soil." The runway was adorned by giant faux industrial beams and covered on top by black sand. Stark models representing nomadic women slowly slinked across the runway in their chunky heels (reminiscent of the experiential creepazoid show Sleep No More). Translucent, textured, gritty fabrics made even the most innocent cut of dress look like it rose from a mausoleum. Hair matched the theme, pinned up in complex swirls and matted teases. All of the models' nails were fully outlined in gold - an interesting attention to detail.

Fashion Week officially started today, but a few renegades tend to sneak onto the schedule a few days early, which I like. It's a nice way to ease into the craziness, and these early shows are often pretty low key (complete with champagne). Obakki is a Canadian contemporary line with a very global feel, but that translates into very wearable pieces—flattering printed silk draped tops for day, sexy-snug party dresses for night—finished with interesting prints and textures. Not to mention the best-looking leather leggings I've seen in awhile.

Kaelen has graduated to the tents, and for her first Lincoln Center presentation, she stayed true to her minimalist aesthetic with pure, tailored shapes; however for this outing, she stepped up her game with more luxe fabrics like liquid-looking metallic leather and even sexy black lace. I found the solid and colorblocked looks to be more refined than the wallpaper-like prints in the beginning, but it's always interesting to see how designers can push their own limits.

When & where: Thursday, February 9 at 2 p.m., the Stage, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: The show notes for Tadashi Shoji noted that his fall collection was inspired by the golden age of Shanghai, however with so many soigné evening frocks in luxurious washed velvet, ethereal Chantilly lace, and embroidered silk tulle, I immediately thought of Lady Mary Grantham, the heroine (of sorts) of PBS's Downton Abbey, currently my favorite show on TV, hands down. The dropped-waist silhouettes and demurely sleeved styles would be perfect for a post-dinner discussion of future heirs or misbehaving servants. As always, Tadashi's bright, rich colors were in full effect; the silhouettes, looser and with more elongated proportions, were new but are still certain to flatter a wide range of body types—there's a reason actresses like Octavia Spencer turn to Tadashi for their red-carpet looks. Perhaps she'll wear one of these to the Oscars in a few weeks.

Bonus points: While at most shows one gets pounded with electronic or rock music, Tadashi's selection was much more mellow, starting with the titular James Bond song "You Only Live Twice," coincidentally, the second time I heard a Nancy Sinatra song today (Nicholas K opened with "Bang Bang").

Where to buy: Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale's.

Thanks to renown hairstylist Cesar Ramirez (pictured above), Cheryl Shops can bring to you a peek backstage at Katie Gallagher's show today. A hallway in The Standard Hotel was converted into a hair salon jammed from wall to wall with bodies. I was surprised to see such focus on nail preparation, but it made sense once I learned that the color was custom mixed exclusively for this show.

When & where: Thursday, February 9 at 9 a.m., the Studio, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: Nicholas K is typically the first official show of Fashion Week, and it tends to get me really excited for the season, because while the brand has a steady vocabulary of wearable pieces—layered leather jackets, jersey tops, and slouchy pants tend to show up repeatedly—I like to see how they're interpreted each season. For fall, they took on a distinct Southwestern vibe, which was a fresh take on Nicholas K's typically urban aesthetic. This meant lots of fringe, covetable leather halter vests, tailored jackets, and blanket-like wraps. Designers Nicholas and Christopher Kunz stayed true to their city-slicker roots with a dark, primarily gray and black palette, but the occasional bits of teal and rust hinted at the desert theme. All in all it was a cool, not corny, take on the wild, wild west.  
Bonus points: The accessory styling in this show deserves mad props for both setting the mood and being really, really cool. Think felted cowboy hats, rugged over-the-knee boots, and turtle-shell medallion necklaces from Jewelry by Matt. For the guys, Vintage Shoe Company made exclusive styles for the show. 
Where to buy: Visit nicholask.com for stores.