Fall 2010 Spanish minimalist quickie: Toni Francesc, Trias & Davidelfin

Toni Francesc
I was a bit harsh on Toni Francesc last season, so I was surprised to be invited back this year. I am happy to report that this outing was a marked improvement--the garments fit the models, and I could actually see them this time, thanks to a better lighting design. The presentation overall was still a bit odd: The robot-like models, all decked out in wigs that made their heads look like those of aliens, stomped to an industrial track that sounded like digital heartbeats (the collection, after all, was titled "Artificial Life"). As for the clothes, there were some nice peak-shoulder jackets and fitted dresses; however, many of the looks veered a bit too far into Star Trek territory for my taste. Hey, maybe Francesc can work on costumes for the inevitable sequel!

Another high-concept Spanish designer, Joaquin Trias based his fall collection on "Vertical Strength," meaning, basically, vertical lines; his previous collection, "Lineal Study," was based on conical shapes and contained many dresses that evoked the Guggenheim Museum. The concept was apparent throughout every look, with strong vertical lines occurring in collarless jackets, A-line skirts, and apron-like dresses. While some of the garments had beautiful movement, such as front and back panels that floated away from the body while in motion, the 24-look collection seemed a bit narrow in focus--rather than show a handful of ideas in several colorways each, I would've preferred to see more exploration of such a strong, striking concept.

Madrid-based designer Davidelfin is all about gender bending; he puts broad-shouldered suits on women, pleated miniskirts on men, and shocking pink on both. His collection today, a study in black, white, and gray (with a little neon thrown in) was a Jil Sander-esque study in minimalism. Some of the styling tricks gave a subtle nod to Michael Jackson: All models, male and female, wore white gloves to accent the hands, and the women wore skyscraper-high Louboutins that drew attention to their feet. And, like Jackson, Davidelfin carries an androgynous undercurrent that manages to be both sterile and sexy at the same time.

No comments